The extra bit might just be enough to get past the threshold needed…
Yeah, could be. But with that small diff it might be possible to fix with the right propeller, did you find time to do some trials?
Yes that is the one. you want the v3 version. It has the heat reduction programming which actually works. Unfortunately the v3 version only has timing that can be changed. It does not have low voltage cutoff or over temp cutoff. The v2 has all these features but it doesnt have the heat reduction option.
This esc doesnt get hot with the externalized cooling plate, and I know when the voltage is getting too low.
I have used the v3 now a dozen times. I have 3 flipsky vesc that i have used , all with over 100amp capacity and after all the trials/ fooling around with settings etc etc etc, I have found a Simple/Small/Able/Extremely inexpensive ESC that I Love. I will never go back to the Vesc.
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less power when you press the trigger? maybe you could have an alarm beeper on the balancing cable and you’re good to go
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I can tell I am low on power 1st I have a power meter on my controller and 2nd I notice I have to use more throttle to get up onto foil. When I can no longer get up on foil—I call it quits. The voltage is 3.4v per call at this point. I use a 10s 3p or 10s6p setup depending if I am efoiling or using as a foil assist for wing foiling. I have a 6384 motor (120kv) with foldable prop and it provides plenty of power to get up 1800cm2 foil and 85kg. I can get up on foil easily until the very end ( individ batt voltage about 3.4v ) using a 10s setup.
I love these Flycolor dragon 80a esc that cost 32$usd. I spent about 700$ so far to find that the 30$ esc is the most reliable. Hahahaha
If you are going to put your money somewhere- put it on some good 21700 batteries, not on the vesc
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Which prop are you using?
So, if it doesn’t have low voltage cut off, do you have to manually monitor voltage while riding?
I would like to warn you about the non-obvious danger when using Flycolor ESC. If you break and restore communication with the remote and you press the trigger at this moment, you can accidentally enter the programming mode. This happened to my friend - a break in communication, and then the board suddenly went in the opposite direction and did not react to the release of gas. It looked very dangerous.
thanks ! do you have a photo of your setup? 30 cells or 60 cells is quite a big box ? how agile is it ?
This might happen, but would have to be very unique situation. This is not unique to Flycolor. This could happen to all esc’s where , when initially connected and throttle is pulled and not let go , it may go into program mode. There would have to be exact timing here for this to happen. I have used esc’s for years and this has never happened. Not to say it cant.
This can happen to all non-vesc esc’s . It could happen to Hobbywing, seaking , seashark esc’s. I have all of these and they all operate the same way.
I am a promoter of the KISS principle. The vesc are not part of it. keep it simple stupid. Thats me, after a year of battling with vesc’s !!
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i dont have a pict right now.
Small box is 5in (width) x 10in(length) x 5in (Height) 10s3p = Wing foiling box
Bigger box is 9in x 10in x 5in. 10s6p = Efoiling box
Here’s another example for you. Two ESCs that I used on the tow boogie. First, one controller went into programming mode, then the second. There is no documentation, an appeal to sellers on aliexpress with a request for documentation did not produce results. Replaced them with VESC 75200 and happy.
I printed about 6 props initially. 2 foldable ones worked really well. One was found on thingiverse
The other one was from this site, slightly smaller in size but a little more efficient. Can’t find it this minute
Did you have a go with the manufacturer, not only the sellers ?
This is the prop I am running…
Got a pic of this one, I’d be interested to see it.
On another very interesting note:
- I sudo waterproofed the 6384 Flipsky (I’m pretty sure there leakage current at the winding to wire joins as I didn’t waterproof them properly)
- I get 200RPM more than the Maytech motor, but interestingly I’m getting it at 2300W, so it seems the motor is way more efficient than the Maytech. I do need to see why I can’t get more than 70A (battery) into the motor though. I assume it may be because its not properly waterproofed…
I will look for the other prop for you. Just no time right this moment.
I have not waterproofed mine at all other than ceramic bearing and sprayed with wd40. I have not gone in saltwater yet, but from what I have read, other people have not experienced leakage of power like you have?? I can get 100a easily when i push my motor briefly. I need 70-80 amps to get up, so i can see the frustration of not getting enough current to motor. Which ESC are you using?
Unfortunately, the manufacturer is unknown. FATJAY are sellers and they couldn’t or wouldn’t help me.
I assume that this ESC is one of the Flycolors, placed in a different case and filled with oil, because the first items in the programming menu are the same as the FLYCOLOR 150A
Guess there’s a diff in kV to explain the lower battery current, this would also need to be combined with a relatively big diff in efficiency to go together.
Slightly higher kV, less duty cycle for same rpm, more available voltage to create motor amps with.
But
Slightly higher kV requires higher motor amps to get same torque, less saturation of motor to get total torque.
KV out of the water is almost the same. It’s definitely a leakage current as I think I may have toasted my APD 120. I gave it full throttle and the separate HV bec blew up. Need to see if the APD survived. It was doing all sorts of strange stuff once it was in the water, but dry it was fine.
The arc200 can run it in the water with the leakage current though. I just need to dry it out and seal out the wires properly, then re-test.