You’ve redesigned a light LACROIX VORTEX using a sk8 flex battery 
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Similar - their one is huge, and so much drag. Those Amphenol are good, but I don’t think that good!
I like the pressurised enclosure though, that’s smart.
My files were from Feb 2022, before the Vortex release, so all original thoughts.
Please never say anyone ever redesigned a lacroix vortex… Their idea was pretty much taken from pwrfoils old boards.
What have you heard about this potential new design?
Are they planning to reduce the box or find a better position?
Also isn’t there a way to get the prop all the way down the mast without the drag from the motor?
I know someone that has seen it.
Find a better position.
That would be near impossible. Smaller diameter motors won’t work and a gearbox would probably come in around the same size.
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I totally agree.
However, in 2023, I cannot refer to a brand that has used this system for +/- a year in 2020 (unveiled oct 2019). LACROIX has been using this system since 2022 and still is. The good news is that PWRFOIL is prior art so it is not patentable.
'E-foil PWRFoil the beginning of sales ;) - #26 by chris
Have anyone tried using the Waydoo subnato system? Waydoo Subnado, Family-Friendly Underwater Scooter for Diving and Snorkeling, pool sea scooter Adults and Kids, Compact and Lightweight – waydoous
One unit can get you to about 3.5 mph underwater speed. Not sure about the surface speed or two units on each side of the mast.
For the price, it could be cheaper than building your own. It is controlled by a wired finger trigger remote but I bet you can modify it to work wirelessly from a surface box to a Bluetooth remote.
Everything else on enclosed including the rechargeable battery which is by the way aircraft safe.
Forgot to mention that you can mount it on a sup with their optional bracket. So you can modify it and maybe even place it on a foil board behind a mast for a quick boost
Dude stop this bullshit
I’m still super happy with this faux drive! I love how early you can get in on the swell and how much longer the rides are as a result.
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Based on your positive experience with the flydragon 80A I’ve dished out the $35 to test it on my 6384/120kV 10S efoil setup (working on a FD as well). I’ve used the Seashark 200A until now, but have no idea how much current it needs in the startup, so am a bit sceptic if it will work for efoiling. Obviously I need to add a bigger heatsink. The question is how (you have done it): There are 2 screwholes on top of the current sink. Would it be sufficient to screw one ontop? The contact area will be limited because of the fins, but maybe mix up some epoxy with some conducting material to fill in? In short: How did you do it, maybe pics? Will your setup be cool enough for continous use or how long before cooldown is needed. Does it cut power to avoid damage when too hot?
2: Timing? 3 settings: I assume 18.75 deg?
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Not sure you’ll get the thrust you expect if you mount it on an efoil.
You are probably right. Need to research their thrust calculations. Waydoo generally produces quality products but the fact that they have an option to have it doubled makes me think that one will not be enough.
Rttn,
It looks like you have some good experience building these things. Do you see anything wrong with this kit from Maytech?
There are also water cooled ESC that with a pump can be cooling the whole system. If its stored in a separate compartment from a battery, do you see any problem with it?
I think BDLC controllers are more efficient than VESC for Foil assistant so I wouldn’t buy this set. However, in tow boogies, I prefer VESC.
I try to choose a controller model that can be passively cooled effectively, guided by the principle - the simpler the better.
Yeah, same as my plan to piggyback using the two screws. Have you done anything to increase contact surface area or is it good enough to press against the fins on the lower heatsink? You said it stopped after 10 min; do you know the reason, maybe too hot?
What timing setting do you use?
I completely milled all the fins using an old drill press, milling cutter and vise. The ESC was not programmed - the default settings were used.
The reason to stop is that the BEC burned out.
I see. That would be ideal, but dont have milling tools, so have to do it even simpler 
Thanks anyway for the info!
I am curious to hear why you think BLDC (6-step) driving is more efficient than field oriented control. Do you prefer BLDC contrillers due to their cheaper price and typically smaller form factor?