Dude stop this bullshit
I’m still super happy with this faux drive! I love how early you can get in on the swell and how much longer the rides are as a result.
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Based on your positive experience with the flydragon 80A I’ve dished out the $35 to test it on my 6384/120kV 10S efoil setup (working on a FD as well). I’ve used the Seashark 200A until now, but have no idea how much current it needs in the startup, so am a bit sceptic if it will work for efoiling. Obviously I need to add a bigger heatsink. The question is how (you have done it): There are 2 screwholes on top of the current sink. Would it be sufficient to screw one ontop? The contact area will be limited because of the fins, but maybe mix up some epoxy with some conducting material to fill in? In short: How did you do it, maybe pics? Will your setup be cool enough for continous use or how long before cooldown is needed. Does it cut power to avoid damage when too hot?
2: Timing? 3 settings: I assume 18.75 deg?
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Not sure you’ll get the thrust you expect if you mount it on an efoil.
You are probably right. Need to research their thrust calculations. Waydoo generally produces quality products but the fact that they have an option to have it doubled makes me think that one will not be enough.
Rttn,
It looks like you have some good experience building these things. Do you see anything wrong with this kit from Maytech?
There are also water cooled ESC that with a pump can be cooling the whole system. If its stored in a separate compartment from a battery, do you see any problem with it?
I think BDLC controllers are more efficient than VESC for Foil assistant so I wouldn’t buy this set. However, in tow boogies, I prefer VESC.
I try to choose a controller model that can be passively cooled effectively, guided by the principle - the simpler the better.
Yeah, same as my plan to piggyback using the two screws. Have you done anything to increase contact surface area or is it good enough to press against the fins on the lower heatsink? You said it stopped after 10 min; do you know the reason, maybe too hot?
What timing setting do you use?
I completely milled all the fins using an old drill press, milling cutter and vise. The ESC was not programmed - the default settings were used.
The reason to stop is that the BEC burned out.
I see. That would be ideal, but dont have milling tools, so have to do it even simpler 
Thanks anyway for the info!
I am curious to hear why you think BLDC (6-step) driving is more efficient than field oriented control. Do you prefer BLDC contrillers due to their cheaper price and typically smaller form factor?
If a cheap controller works better, why pay more?
I get more power from 80A BDLC than from 100A VESC.
You can quit thinking about using the Subnado for pretty much anything except a dive toy.
I’ve got one and my buddy bought 2.
Not a lot of thrust and the fastest setting turns off on 30 seconds to prevent overheating and over drawing.
Scott
In that case you either don’t have a well working copy of VESC or you are going over the BLDC controller spec. VESC allows you to use FOC, which is superior to 6-step in efficiency. It generates optimal torque from the amps you consume. Efficiency matters for our water toys. FOC is very quiet as well. 6-step is not, as you have probably noticed.
ОК, please tell me the brand of a good working copy of VESC suitable for use in Foildrive Assistant and I’ll definitely try it.
I’d probably try one of the new aluminum PCB Flipsky units 
Do you mean 75100? I have a couple of 75200s and use them in tow boogie. Good VESCs, unfortunately both versions are quite large and definitely not suitable for my Foil Assistant box.
Yeah, specifically with the aluminum PCB. Unfortunately they didn’t name the new version very well, so it’s easily confused with the old design that has a “basic” heavy copper fiberglass core PCB.
The 75100 alu is smaller than the 75200 alu. Do you happen to have logs available from running a typical foil assist setup? That would help figure out whether the smaller version is strong enough for foil assist.
I need 110-120 motor amps and about 55 battery amps for eFoiling. Based on this, the 75100 alu might work in a foil assist setup.
Providing you use a board with enough volume, the Raiden-7 legacy has already a compact form factor.
The ZESC Raiden-7 in Pro version is worth the wait. No figure or release date published yet.