Hi Eli, any good progress on your first built? I plan on building my own now as well and would love to connect to learn from your experience and what parts you ended up getting.
Gordon, nekitesurfing
Thank you for your observation.
When looking at the schematic that came with the ESC the programming cable has a connector with the 3 wires and and was hidden inside the protective cable sheath which I thought strange.
Will use the other 2 wire cable without the connector tomorrow and connect it in parallel with the supply from the BEC
Let you know the result - many thanks
I have used both. The flipsky feels like a high tech device. The screen is bigger as well has more info. More pleasing to eye and much more visible.
Gps provided speed and distance travelled. Very important for getting home if efoiling
Easier to wire up and much smaller receiver
Both have good signal strength
Gps most important difference
Flipsky has a disgusting display. In sunny weather you can’t see anything.
For comparison. TFT vs. OLED. Which display is more pleasing to the eye? I think the answer is obvious.
So I got this stuff together based off of this spreadsheet. The blue is for the battery + terminal, the black is for the - terminal. I assume the white from the RX goes to the white on the Flycolor, but you can see there are more leads between the Flycolor ESC and harness that aren’t emerging from the harness. These are some strange twin leads that come off the harness.
Now my questions:
- Is this correct so far?
- What battery setup? I’m 175#/80kg. Will 10s2p be enough? Is this a good choice?
- Once I have replaced the bearings in this generic motor, will I need to cut off the motor shaft?
- Do I need to get a Y cable and BEC, as well as the 4mm female connectors to go to the ESC output?
- Due to the dual leads coming off the harness from the ESC, should I put 2 XT90 connectors on there, one for each pair of positive/negative leads, or soldier both leads into each pin?
i am 80kg and with exact same motor /kv I can easily get up on foil. ( I do not think I have ever gone full throttle except when end of battery ( 3.2v) )
Yes you need a bec to get 6v or a 4AA pack to make 6 volts, which is what I did initially. Later soldered on a bec. And buying a Y connector makes less soldering.
I would say, the fewer the connections the better!! so how you do your battery is up to you.
Nice to see you got the flipsky remote. Whether it is the flipsky or maytech, you need to connect a wire from the + source to the blue wire to read a voltage of the battery — so you know when to stop and save your battery.
almost there!!!
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To each their own.
But when I look at the picture— it is obvious the flipsky IS NICER. I never had a problem in the sunlight
I have and used both and prefer the flipsky . Perhaps if the maytech had GPS it would have a better chance-- but if all you do is efoil---- then you need a gps
As far as safety is concerned, are people wiring in magnetic reed cutoff switches between the RX and ESC? I’m thinking of attaching something like this 2PCS Mechanical Brake Cut Off Magnet Sensor Switch Electric For-Ebike DIY | eBay to the leash, so that if the leash gets pulled, the magnet pops out and disconnects the motor. I’m also looking at getting a pair of these to use as the internal resistance is lower than the typical packs made from 18650s and may be more space efficient. Amazon.com.
Strangely the controller doesn’t give wattage, amperage readouts at the moment. Am I missing something?
Yes, reed switch inline with the pwm signal (usually white wire)
You said you don’t get wattage, please avoid powering your motor with those alligator clips, at the very least, use screw terminal blocks for your bench tests.
I have had unloaded motors that took 800w at startup, you’re putting your setup at risk.
when connected properly, the resistance on the power and phase wires is consistent which is what your ESC needs inorder to work properly and safely.
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For both the maytech and flipsky , the watt/amps are not given out unless you have a vesc ESC.
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Hi Strongarm,
Excelente solution, can you share where I can have one or how I can do it??
I have an Armstrong performance mast 865 try to find a solution!!
Thanks
Thanks - I made a few upgrades to the design before I moved on to other projects. Inspired by a Tesla door handle on a model 3/Y. Happy to share the step files if anyone wants to borrow the design.
edit: here is the link
This worked well, but the best solution I think it to make a rubber/silicone over molded pod that is stretchy enough so that it fits any mast.
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Amazing solution. If you do not mind sharing I will be very thankful.
Also the technique :).
Hi Shearline
late reply - cut off shaft - buy a BEC and Y cable - ensure all Black cables are common to same pin- solder dual battery cables to single XT90
I managed to get the Maytech Handset to pair but motor not running continuously
Replaced the FlyDragon with the Maytech Vesc and are out on the water on an Axis setup
Sent my FlyDragon to a buddy who runs RC planes and buggies to see if can work out what I am missing if I have any update on the FlyDragon will let you know
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Hi Shearline
Interested in receiving the step files if possible
Thank you
Here is the dropbox link for the files. Dropbox - Armstrong Strap Mount - Simplify your life
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Thank you very much Strongarm, hope that help!
Thanks for the files.
Excuse my ignorance, but how does one convert those files to .stl / printer readable???
any simple way ? or not possible ??