Thanks for the advice 
That was my thought on why I didn’t glue the bearings in. I was thinking about glueing just the large bearing on the front so you dont have to run a circlip like foil assist does to pull the housing off to easily re-coat in corrosion x.
If you don‘t put a circlip, you risk loosing the bell including prop. Might be a smaller risk with a folding prop.
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ya, I wonder how the big company does it without worrying about warranty issues arising from people losing the bell and props.
Got it all hooked up with the BEC, reed switch and everything, just need a Y connector now. It’ll be 12S1P 5000MAh. Wonder if I should go for 12S2P and a 10000 pack.
Which Step files are you referring to?
Where do you source the elastic band? What are some specs on it?
In the dropbox there is a screen shot of the strap. It’s from an Australian hardware store, but should be similar available around the world.
Ah gotcha, I was able to find these in N. America. These look really handy!
These, the Aussie ones and the Titan Straps all have the same rough buckle shape, hole profile and strap width, I would assume. It’s probably different branding for the same product made in the same factory…
I’d do this. It also means the cells heat less and will have a longer lifespan
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A 1p may not be enough if you are using cells. You will be putting out enough volts but depending on the 21700/1860 cell you are using, will decide how many amps you can put out. Are you using a lithium pack?? Then you might be ok. Make sure pack can put out at least 100 amps as if not it won’t power it enough or create a lot of heat and hurt the pack. If you are just going to use bursts of motor to get up out of water onto foil, then you might be ok with small lithium pack, not so much if you plan to efoil
For reference, here is the actual consumption with motor 6384 and 10s4p samsung 30Q:
FYI about batteries: the lower battery internal resistance, the better performance and the less heating. Therefore I would choose the leader Molicel P42A 21700. (There is newer version P45B, but it is still high in price).
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I am using the flycolor 150A
Strongarm,
This is an excellent design. I printed two versions but for whatever reason, the “hinge” part (which you have described as a Tesla door handle) is fused to the bottom of the pod. I tried to print it with the “mouth” part vertical and horizontal to the plate and get the same issue. Not sure if you or others can share any tricks or printer settings. The file clearly shows a separate piece that should be removable from the pod body.
Can you also specify which bolts you used at each point? I tried M4 bolts for the motor, but the ones that are long enough to reach through to the motor can’t fit in the hole. I’m clearly doing something wrong.
Any guidance greatly appreciated.
Looks great. Did you use the same Strongarm’s 3D print stl files or modified for Gong mast? ( I have the same mast…)
Can you please share your files for the cable guide and the pod with us? Thank you.
thru a lot of work, I managed to get the stl printer files ( 2) for this mount. Printing it now, hoping they work.
If you want me to send you these 2 files, just message me and I can email them.
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What a fruitful road since March 2022 ! FoilDrive may well be inspired by your work in a future FDAssist version 
Another way could be a recycled strap without hole (not commercial like Titan or Voile) pressed between the motor pod and one (or two) cam lever.s
To make it even more streamline with an adhesive or better still a 3D printed NACA shaped fairing:
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