Looking to buy a FSESC75200 through bangood EU. Anybody know when they had incorrect resistor issue and any thought if remaining EU stock is still affected? Anybody get a good one yet?
Feels stupid to buy something that needs soldering directly…
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Was it problems with the first version also released last summer also?
Note that if you buy through bangood you will not get the latest updated version as in the pictures in this thread. If you look at the pictures on bangood site you can see that the first release had 80v Brown caps, on latest flipsky it is 100v black ones. There is also difference when it comes to mosfet version etc.
Hey,
This is my first post in this forum. I failed at a PM build three years ago due to a broken gearbox and let the project sit for a while.
Now I’d like to give it another try. After some rechearch it seems the 65161 seems to be a good direct drive option.
Has anyone had any luck with this combination by now?
Thanks already to everyone in this forum. It’s a great resource!
Greetings from northern Germany,
Lukas
Yes, there are many builds with this motor. You could request @V_S for access to the german speaking telegram group, there is a lot going on in this group.
I’ve seen plenty Builds with the motor but other ESCs. Do you know of any with the combination?
Thank you very much for mentioning the Telegram group, didn’t know about that.
Yes, the flying rifle case: [Surf n' Destroy] Building a flying sniper rifle case
Hgl-tech, flipsky, maytech, maker-x 75200 are more or less the same, it is a vesc75300 clone.
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I just had some luck with the 75200. After initial setup using VESC TOOL & YouTube vids I could only get about 1500 watts out of it (on the water) before it started violently cogging/pulsing. So I went to the FOC menu on VESC TOOL and increased I (current) to 40 amps, decreased D (duty cycle) to .15, and increased ERPM to 3000. Then I connected the motor (warning: it will spin a little) and ran the “Detect and Calculate Parameters” procedure on the FOC page (RL then flux linkage then APPLY). It calculated new parameters for motor resistance, inductance, flux linkage, etc. Then I wrote that configuration to the motor and wha-la it actually put out some smooth serious power on the lake. More testing is needed but this seems a promising start…
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You can also run the motor wizzard, for 65161 choose medium size inrunner. To get out of the water, max current should not be too low, somewhere around 150A.
For clarification, “I” on the FOC menu refers to the motor spin-up current, not the max motor current. Not sure if 150amps is appropriate but maybe?
If you use the motor wizzard, you do not need to set the motor spin current, it chooses everthing depending on the motor you select. Under “general”, you can set the current limits for motor current, battery current, abs max current and brake current. Those are important, max motor current should not be higher than what your motor is rated for, but not too low to get enough torque for takeoff. For a 63100 motor I set motor current to 150A, abs max motor current to 180 and battery current to 100. These values work well in my setup. For a 65161 you can probably go a bit higher (if your battery can deliver the current).
Oh yah sorry I should have been more clear - I ran the setup wizard (with the appropriate max motor currents) and the result was 1500 watts max output followed by something like electronic “backfires.” Glad yours worked tho!
Today I have successfully tested on the sea flipsky 75200, version with water cooling case, remote vx1, auto detection big inruner, FOC mode, 99 duty cycle. It is big diference from my previous flier 400a. It’s very quiet and it’s easier to control it. I tryed to record vesc log on phone but can’t t find file. Do any know how to properly set location for log file on vesc 3.0 android…
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Update on our new combos. They worked very well now.
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Just reading this post… I have a 75200 I purchased last September. Never manage to get my motor runing above 100A. The 4x resistors are all 1.9ohms. Is this the issue described? Anoying Flipsky didn’t recall the units
if it is a known issue.
Yes it’s the issue. I just got my replacement, motor detection is far better. I have no results in water so far
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I contacted Flipsky they answered the resistance is correct, that it is 1.9ohms as supposed to be. Can someone measure the resistance of the resistor on a late unit?
Hello,
Ihad the same issue- I didn’t get it to work under load- the motor starts “Coging” when reaching 50A.
I decided to open my ESC and see if the resistors are correct-all 6 was the wrong ones 1.6 Ohms instead of 4.7 Ohms. I replaced the by myself.
My ESC is the waterproof version so it was a hell to open it and seal with silicone in the end.
Now it works fine with lots of power.
Flipsky don’t want to take responsibility for the mistake. wont buy from the again for sure!
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This is disappointing! I thought these guys at Flipsky were better than Maytech. How did you learned it was supposed to be 4.7 ohms? Would be great if someone with a new unit could measure the resistors. Would be hard for them to deny it then. They’re adamant the correct value is 1.9ohms.
I just got the replacement. Before it was not possible to run it, it had low resistance 1,x. I cannot speak for the replacement because it’s potted, but works ok. I ordered via banggood, complaint handling was excellent.
