I’ve already explained that above, but it appears lost on you…
Sorry, no!
You making theoretical blah blah… it seems to me good marketing blah blah…
No data, it’s all just theory
You put 2 quotations …!!! No radii of the angles nor at what distance the Shape of the opening closes …!!! MALA is a rectangle, so easier to draw on fusion for beginners and more obvious for 3-D printing . But that’s just my opinion .
No matter what the cut out shape you will still need to make some test fits first using cardboard or other easy to work with materials.
Going off the CAD drawing for drop stitch pattern is not going to be accurate, it will just give an approximation.
Best to get the board in hand then make the enclosure.
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Making interesting assumptions here…
If someone purchases a board, then they’d get a full set of 3D files that would allow them to 3D print or CNC the core which they can then glass. There’s even the alternative where if they want to pay a bit more and are not in a rush, I can even provide the already CNC’d core which they would just need to laminate (I just haven’t calculated that cost yet).
However if a more experienced DIY’r wanted to go their own route, its pretty cheap to purchase a radius gauge and measure any of the radii accurately. As Strongarm says, regardless of shape, its important to get a board in hand and then do some rough test fits…
that’s exactly what I did with the MALA for a first approach: printed PETG corners and wooden parts for adjustment. But the MALA’s salesman had sent me the exact plans for this sketch beforehand, which advanced the work well before I received the board.
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And what if mala had a trapezoid hole and sent the shape beforehand? Equally easy, right?
I feel like someone’s gonna say no just to be difficult 
Yes…!!!
You’ve been acting in bad faith… I can sense a fear of passing on information before ordering, for fear of being copied… and that’s a shame for a sharing group as @pacificmeister conceived it in the beginning.
Ok judge Judy, glad the bad faith police are about…
What I design during my time is my property and I have every right to withold whatever information I desire.
I share more than enough information and help out more than enough individuals with the builds.
But again, I didn’t realise you were the forum police…
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I’m not a Forum Police officer Est it’s just possible to create a topic on your secret board so as not to pollute my construction thread too much!
With your way of looking at business, you run the risk of scaring off potential new customers 
Kisses
Haha says you who asked me to post about it in your own thread, and then got onto the debate on how a rectangular hatch is easier…
If you read up I initially told someone else I’d PM them all the information.
You’re free to that opinion, but at this stage I haven’t even decided to really sell the boards commercially. I simply offered one to someone else because they were looking for an inflatable.
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Yes, and it was I who told this person about you so that he could make his decision, which he did.
Hi guys
I think the foil.zone group is such a great group where individuals with experience help beginners out.
Manu is right, he asked for the dimensions of the board to help me so I can decide which I want and I did.
Now my questions is how much ampere do you guys prefere for the batterie, I try to search good batteries for my akkubox that are not so expensive. If someone know a good site and a good batterie, would you like to share it with me?
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Hi!
I think a good and not so expensive Akku is the: Molicel INR21700-P42A 4200mAh - 45A
So, you can bulid an 14S8P ( minimum P ) or better an 14S10P Akkupack.
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The size of battery depends largely on what you want to accomplish; long rides or short and more playfull?
- For long rides but heavier, a good battery would be 14S10P in the Molicell P42a. That would give you the same capacity battery as the large Lift foils.
- For super playful, a good battery would be 14S5P in the Molicell P42a. This would be half the weight of the prior and give half the ride time, but would be a lot more manoeuvrable and easier to carry.
I found that I never go far on my efoil so most of my batteries are now lighter and then I’ll just swap a battery if I want to ride for longer.
Hi nice2cu
I have placed an order for thé molicel batteries. I use the same files as Manu for my akkubox and the mast but he Made an 12s12p but thé dimensions of the molicel are différent than the dimensions of the batteries Manu used back in the time. So what do you think its the best for long rides. 14s10p and If you have would you like to share the fusion 360 file with me of the case for thé batteries ?
