I not think so that a box like an rectangle or like your hole makes a big difference 
With an inflatable board, the box determines the outside shape of the board as thereās a minimum thickness you can have. Having a rectangular box means straight rails and a wide back which translates to more drag.
I wanted the back of the board as thin with as less drag as possible, so designed the box accordingly.
Hi
I am searching since yesterday for the dimensions of the akkubox of the Mala, but i canāt find them. Can someone send me the dimensions, because jezza would like to know the dimensions?
I donāt care about the accubox. When you said you like the dimensions of the mala board, I thought you meant the entire board. I assume you like them because it looks simpler to build?
Exactly, it is simplier to build a mala board and I met Manu. So thats why I want the same dimensions as the mala.
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Itās actually not harder to make at all, but it does depend on your skillset and construction techniques.
My 2 cents after building an inflatable board box is that āmala squareā or ājezza trapezoidalā hole is not so much the deciding factor in the box build
Fitting the battery you want is first, then making the lid opening large enough to insert battery and then achieving the tight seal, once that is done then following the general outline of the board opening is no biggie whichever box build method you choose 
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But the design and premeditated sketches are so much simpler on a rectangular MALA-type case!
Please explain where they are simplerā¦
How did you measure that your board is better?
Iāve already explained that above, but it appears lost on youā¦
Sorry, no!
You making theoretical blah blahā¦ it seems to me good marketing blah blahā¦
No data, itās all just theory
You put 2 quotations ā¦!!! No radii of the angles nor at what distance the Shape of the opening closes ā¦!!! MALA is a rectangle, so easier to draw on fusion for beginners and more obvious for 3-D printing . But thatās just my opinion .
No matter what the cut out shape you will still need to make some test fits first using cardboard or other easy to work with materials.
Going off the CAD drawing for drop stitch pattern is not going to be accurate, it will just give an approximation.
Best to get the board in hand then make the enclosure.
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Making interesting assumptions hereā¦
If someone purchases a board, then theyād get a full set of 3D files that would allow them to 3D print or CNC the core which they can then glass. Thereās even the alternative where if they want to pay a bit more and are not in a rush, I can even provide the already CNCād core which they would just need to laminate (I just havenāt calculated that cost yet).
However if a more experienced DIYār wanted to go their own route, its pretty cheap to purchase a radius gauge and measure any of the radii accurately. As Strongarm says, regardless of shape, its important to get a board in hand and then do some rough test fitsā¦
thatās exactly what I did with the MALA for a first approach: printed PETG corners and wooden parts for adjustment. But the MALAās salesman had sent me the exact plans for this sketch beforehand, which advanced the work well before I received the board.
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And what if mala had a trapezoid hole and sent the shape beforehand? Equally easy, right?
I feel like someoneās gonna say no just to be difficult 
Yesā¦!!!
Youāve been acting in bad faithā¦ I can sense a fear of passing on information before ordering, for fear of being copiedā¦ and thatās a shame for a sharing group as @pacificmeister conceived it in the beginning.
Ok judge Judy, glad the bad faith police are aboutā¦
What I design during my time is my property and I have every right to withold whatever information I desire.
I share more than enough information and help out more than enough individuals with the builds.
But again, I didnāt realise you were the forum policeā¦
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