Why not connect with a USB cable as the popup suggests?
It looks like your uuid is just above the word “manually” in the screenshot. See if you can add it to the app manually? Have a look in the Pair BLE section, lower down on the first page of the vesc tool app. Inside there you can add vesc via bluetooth manually.
Tripped over the usb cord and ripped off the nub on the VESC. talk about feeling dumb
No luck using that number. It says it needs to be 24 characters.
Tried to use strings of numbers given in the Bluetooth properties for the device on my pc. No luck.
Would CAN cables be an option?
Hi, I did the same to my Maker-X VESC: mechanicaly destroyed the USB-port. One option to program the VESC ist to use a second VESC and connect the VESCs by CAN. Works for me.
I’m loving the bigger capacity 13s8p battery pack, with Samsung 40T3 cells. I’m getting much longer sessions, around 20km from a pack, 2 hours of surfing. It doesn’t sag as much when you get to 45V the way a 13s6p pack does. I travel ~1.5km out to the waves from my launch location, so it’s good to have a reasonable buffer at the end of a session.
I added 40mm closed cell foam for nose buoyancy, which does a reasonable job at preventing nose dives, but really short period troughs can still cause it to dive when going with in the same direction as the chop.
Printed clamps hold the foam securely, much better than gluing to the PE board surface which is like teflon for glues. It’s probably hard to see, but the lower two parts are angled to match the nose of the board.
I added a 100V voltmeter display, and it’s so much better than using the 5 bars on the remote for battery voltage. Now I know the actual battery voltage on the water. The voltmeter requires a low voltage supply (in addition to the battery voltage and ground), which comes from the 55v to 12v buck converter (also used by the fan). There’s a 3mm acrylic window inside the green printed panel, providing a couple of layers of waterpoofing with ISR 70-03 glue.
The maker x hi100 vesc gets up to 75-80 deg C (in 10 deg C ambient) under prolonged 3kw output, with the fan running slowly at 9V. It cools back down to 40 deg within a minute of cruising, so it’s working fine. I’ll update the fan’s buck supply to run at 12V before summer, so it will stay a bit cooler. I sprayed some corrosionx into the hi100 to reduce the likelihood of saltwater damage. The Pelican seals have been reliably at keeping it all dry.
The external voltage display provides an extra safety feature by running through the BMS - I connected the buck converter via the XT60 charging plug. The battery is only running a 30A BMS on the charge port, with the discharge leads bypass the BMS via a 150A midi fuse to the XT90. If the BMS detects a battery fault the voltmeter will shut off and let me know the battery is not happy.
I was disappointed by how heavy the HO ski handle was that I purchased, around 350g, it was sinking and really difficult to grab underwater while pumping back to a moving tow boogie. So I built a one handed 16cm handle from a carbon tube, filled with foam, and a couple of printed end caps. The new handle is 60g and floats well. I also threaded some compressible 10mm PE foam rod inside my tow line so it also floats better now.
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Same idea, flush design … the gland
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Nice Enata board, I like it’s nose buyancy 
A wide flat and short version of that in carbon foam core would make an excellent tow boogie platform.
I wish I could add rocker to my Manta polyethylene boogie board, it has so little rocker in order to duck dive easily. I have thought about heating it up with a heat gun to bend the nose up. Actually, one option might be to cut a v-groove across the board where I want the rocker, and then use a couple of heat guns to heat bond the board back together. When you’re foiling on flat water sections at speed, it’s only the back half of the boogie board touching the water because it’s planing.
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Hi, could you share stl archives?
thanks
Nose buoyancy is all sorted now, with no more submarine nose dives in short period chop. I added a 45 degree section of closed cell onto the foam I had already added. Bostik contact adhesive sticks very well to the closed cell foam.
Nothing sticks to the PE surface of the boogie board, hence why i used three piece plug/clamps that hold the foam onto the nose of the boogie, as per earlier photos.
The name should probably be changed to Tug Boogie, with the new nose.
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this is just awesome work. masterpiece. I’m still in progress of building my eFoil but since then I’ve got into surf foil & dockstart. So having freedom under my feet is just second to none.
I’m going to build a Tow Boogie ! Kudos for the inspiration.
Likely NESE 13S8P or 14S8P on 21700. Custom DIY board full carbon. Peli 1470 case on top. Maker X ESC.
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I’ve just started building a tow boogie similar to @Valhalla and @Jatem . Has anyone experimented with mounting the motor off-center to remove the need for a trim tab?
I’m 95kg and I don’t use a trim tab on a 75l wing board. Going to try the 60L board and see if that works in the next few days.
I’ve tried offsetting the tow point either side of the 25mm box section, and it didn’t work that well. It made turning one way difficult.
If buying a body board new go for a 42” or bigger. I got a 46” from rebel sports in Aus for $100. Also look for a “dual stringer” one, otherwise you need to cut the central stringer for the mast and the board looses all its strength.
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The gland idea mentionned above is doing its discrete revolution. With this “nose” detail, wondering if it isn’t time for an XPS version of the boogie …
Interesting. …and doable. The SUP and wing adapters could make a good starting point. It would free one hand which could be nice.
Though, letting go of the tow rope means that the remote goes with it.
I like to keep the remote in hand. It allows for tow boogie retrieval after letting go of the rope.
It would require some retraining for those accustomed to driving with one hand and shifting with another so-to-speak.
yes got you. I’m going to try a 3D printed mount and attach the remote with the handle bar… I’m not sure I would be able anyway to guide the tow to towards me when not controlling the rope
I initially considered putting the remote on the tow handle, but it’s not something I would do now. I let go of the handle and pump around to catch multiple waves with the tow boogie parked, and then pump over to the boogie and start up the throttle again so that I can pick up the handle while foiling along. That way I don’t need to do another a waterstart, which extends the duration of my session significantly. I’m out catching waves for about 2 hrs 30 on a good day.
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mmm, you convinced me. I can clearly see how you are using it!
Updated the tow handle so it doesn’t submarine as often when I’m looking for a foiling pickup, after riding a wave. It’s only 85mm wide. The bigger handle was pulling under the water when the towb was driving alongside me on good sized swell. This small handle weighs 28g and does an ok job at bouncing around on the surface. A higher tow point would keep the handle above the water, but I want the tow point low for water starts, to keep the nose of the towb from rising up too much.
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