Thanks. Then I will stick with the 4’+ plan for foil-assist pumping and for dock start / drop start I will choose another gear.
What is your opinion about length of the board for waves + chop with foil assist while being able to pump. The shorter it is , the easier to pump, but it is harder to get up on foil. Where is the balance? For now I am thinking towards 4’8". What do you think?
Completely agre with you, unfortunately I dont have a clear answer. With higher power, it almost does not matter. But efficiency AT takeoff gives you more range.
I feel around 50% difference between 4.2 and 7+ for takeoff in choppy waters. The diy modified windsurf board was insane for takeoff efficiency. Weight and noze toutchdowns are the reasons I go full diy dw build.
My OG plan of downwinding the 4.2 has fell short in just a few sessions due to the low range and safety for “Real” downwind runs. For smaller UP/dw runs, close to shore, it is a good and fun option. In the waves it would also be quite fun. But then the efficiency means I get around 10 starts and some motoring around per battery, not a lot more. With a bigger battery, I would have more range but negate the goal of having a light setup. So now going the other way, instead of increasing the battery, I will increase takeoff efficiency + backup with paddle start.
The DW board should be between 4.5 and 5.5 kgs, it was at 3.1kg with Hull layup before filler coat, missing top layup and pad.
Deck coat has way less wrinkles than Hull, despite some issues with vacuum during transport
1 layer carbon all the way + 1 renforcement layer on Feet area + 1 layer GF 125 all the way.
4.3 kg so far, so 4.7~5kg with filler coat and pad I Guess.
Still undecided about putting another layer of glass or carbon leftover patches on foil box
ry
You are fast. I Like it
Worked 2400-0200 to make it happen with work and family schedule lol. Then top coat during kid nap. And varnish when kid asleep tonight
How are you getting the time in for the coats to cure? Mine always take an age at the end in between hot coats and sanding and checking for pin holes etc.
Quite hot a work when we have the oven on (120kw), then at home I have this closet with heat pipes that goes UP to 30° or so, basically an autoclave
Ready for test this afternoon. Cabon feels much stiffer than my pump board with amazon epoxy (at box opening)
I prepared the hole in the pad for gore vent on deck in the middle of board.
Surface finish is far from perfect, but as some other said, the board is meant to ride in the air most of the time I will rework the hull later if I feel it is dragging too much water at takeoff.
Maybe I work fast because my standards are low
Fail fast philosophy
Finished weight is 4.830gr
Sucess
Needs much lower throttle to lift, and lifts very easy. Also used 1401 for this New test. The 1401 feels super flexy, same feeling I had when testing it from a Friend.
The board nose does not prevent toutchdowns as much as I would have liked.
Lost my GoPro 6 in the lake had my phone on the wetsuit safety Line and did not take the Time to secure the mouth mount GoPro with a leash, my mistake. Old but working
Had prepared some floats for the DJI neo, tracking Lost me a few Times but overall nice result!
Very happy about how much I could pump the setup, 8kg all in, not so light but still pumpable.
I also tested standing upright, and even without speed I could stand and be stable, good signal for future paddle tests.
Great. Glad it worked well. Good to see the footage. Are you saying both the genuine axis 1401 and the alibaba one feel they have flex in them?
Yes, not back to back testing but similar feeling.
When I tested axis 1401 and power carbon 820, I tought it was the mast flexing. Now I think it is the fuse/wing or mast/fuse interface flexing.
You Can see in the drone footage the board is very woobly side to side. It is the same mast I used with png1300, and did not have so much Flex then. "Red"axis fuse has a wider head than “black” séries of fuse.
I am getting quite stressed out about safety with the prop. Too many close calls, plus breaking maytech remote springs. Anyone sucessfulled implemented a dead man Switch on maytech remote?
Something you have to hold pressed in order for the throttle to be active ?
Did you see my post? There are some solutions there - about how to react when spring breaks. (And next post about which springs to buy)
'Maytech V3 -Flipsky VX3 - Flipsky VX3 pro - #24 by lishine
Thanks, will check that!
Killswitch on the leash? I use one
I can see wobbling / possible flex in your video. If you are confident the mast is ok as you have used that on other set ups it must be one of these. The mast to fuselage connection. The fuselage to wing connection. The 1401 wing itself (maybe this copy is not as stiff) or the foil box in your board as this was the first trip out on your bigger board.
Have you tried gently tapping one end of your 1401 wing with everything set up on land. I once had a very flexy mast on a different brand and I could see the whole set up shaking a lot when I did this. The resonance and movement also went on for quite some time before it stopped. This highlighted the mast was not good enough. When I do this with my axis set up, there is a small amount of movement which quickly stops.
I hope you find the source of the problem and can fix it.
Thanks for the feedback, I used the same setup in pure pump in the same session, and had similar high levels of flex. Also had tested official axis 1401 with power carbon 820 mast and pump board, and had same feeling. I think I can improve it sligthly by having shims between mast and fuse.