Manufoil 2nd buil

I am working on this too. My sss56 got new front and rear shield to make it waterproof and as short as possible.

Like this I can mount the gearbox directly on the motor and do not need an extra tube over the whole assembly. Also best cooling.

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Really good idea. Do you have a shaft seal on the motor gearbox?

Yes I am using a ceramic shaft seal. I think these are way better than the standard rings rubbing on the shaft.
I am using this one:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00HG9RK9M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These shaft seals are used in waterpumps.

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I wanted to use my sss this way as well, with custom casing to make it waterproof but the shaft was already cut down and grinded to 6mm, so not worth it. Curious to know if the stock shaft is long enough for this custom design ? I mean mechanical seals will probably need an extra 50mm to be installed, so I’m curious how you did it.

Also, anyone having a motor chief gearbox 1:4 or 1:3 unused he wants to let go ?

There is no shaft seal on the motor shaft. The whole assembly is waterproof with the seal on the main prop shaft connected to the gearbox shaft.

That’s a great design!

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Flipsky 65161 also seams to have the ceramic seal these days.

https://flipsky.net/products/brushless-sensored-motor-amphibious-fully-waterproof-motor-65161-120kv-6000w-for-efoil-ejet-boards-ebike

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This new 950 proto is an absolute weapon. Carving machine, pretty fast 47kmh with 6inch prop. Low end pretty good too, I can foil between 20-25A. 7 inch will arrive this week, stay tunned.

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295A motorcurrent WOW!

OMFG. (20 characters)

only for few second, small board and small foil, need a lot to get on the plane

Well seems I will have to wait for David to produce another batch of 7inch prop. The 7inch I purchased from a forum member was in fact a 6inch, pretty annoyed about it Really disappointed

I’m getting good speed with the 6 inch can’t wait to try the 7

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Tibo, may I ask you to share a photo of your water intake and escape for water cooling?!


All goes through the mast. Intake tube goes down the mast and connect in the pod facing forward so it can passive cool. I choose to not drill an exit through the board and have a short tube going back in the mast.

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If you got someone to cut a prop for you I can whip up a 3d file for you…

Would be awesome Jezza, a mate got a Haas it should so the job :smiley:


I machined an heatsink to TIG weld on the 75200 vesc heatsink. Then I just have to TIG some nipple to connect the tubes. Should do a good job keeping temp low.

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Well Tig welding anodized part is a bitch, even after grinding the anodizing… I didn’t take pic of the welds they are so ugly I can’t look at them… I pressure tested the heatsink at 30psi and a weld was slighy porous. It didnt leak at 20psi, I embedded the heatsink in epoxy just in case

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I cut out the bottom of an ABS enclosure. I will glue the heatsink on it with 3m 5200. This way I can keep the vesc watertight.

It is not as pretty as expected but should do the job

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Tried the 300A opto seal today, this thing has so much torque compared to the 75200, the difference is insane. I had my phone connected to the BMS and battery current consumption seems almost identical.

Is it normal for the ESC too have so much more Torque or is something still not optimized with the VESC setting?

1 Like