Manufoil 2nd buil

Wonder, is this another design compared to the one tested on the forum, blades looks different compared to the one I have?

No, it is the same one, with „Spock Ears“, bought a spare one directly from Flite just recently.

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Yep it’s the same one.

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OK, thanks, just the picture then does not look right.

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here is lift limit :wink:

https://forum.e-surfer.com/uploads/default/optimized/2X/0/0430bfae9350a12f1c5a000da549079511d4954b_2_562x750.jpeg

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Tried to buy it actually :joy::rofl::rofl::rofl:. The man asked 500$ even tho the pcb is dead :man_shrugging:t2:

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Pretty happy with efficiency with the 950cm and 3blades 6inch. Will be interesting to see the gain with folding prop and a 1100 or 1200cm2.

I had a weird over current fault not even pushing it. Haven’t had one for ages

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1250 high aspect proto and folding prop. If I carefully maintain 23-25kmh I get 37-41Wh/km pretty efficient. Giving little pump it drop to 9amp20211121_171954
20211121_171916

The tide was helping a bit

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that’s awesome. well done!!! can’t wait to ride mine

Impressed with the folding prop and this 950 front wing. Start to feel pretty fast.

Got a weird Over temp FET fault while temp reading were cold. Can’t explain it.

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Anyone replaced the Maytech trigger spring with a harder one. On high speed crash even if I remove the finger of the trigger just the impact with water give the board some trottle. I had quite a few close call lately.

The trigger spring on the Lift remote is much harder.

why don’t you add something like this? Foil Drive Assist, DIY - #88 by pablo_foil It’s just a reed switch that powers off the rx. Haven’t tested it on the water though, if i find the delay too long i might add an arduino between the rx and esc, so that if the reed switch is released, the brake is activated instead of cutting the signal

Remove it and counterwind it, it does help at least for a while. I do the opposite to have less finger fatigue when riding longer time.
Never thought about the case of accental gas, you are probably right.

I guess it only happen when going fast, above 40kmh

Interesting, where is the switch located?

In my opinion, the trigger on the remote control should have a trigger guard, like a pistol. This will prevent hitting the trigger when falling and will prevent accidental pressing during reflexive squeezing of the hand (in the case when the finger is outside the zone of the trigger guard).

not my finger pressing it, the impact on water does

Triggergard will perfectly protect against water impact.

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It’s inside the waterproof box, the magnet activates the reed switch from up to 1cm.
I also added two magnets inside the box, next to the reed switch, to keep the outer magnet “key” in place. I really like it as a key, since you can see if it is “armed” by just looking at the board.
On the downside, a small wave would take it out of place, so it only works with larger boards (unless you shape the key as a cone or something similar, i think someone in the forum did something like this)


As for using an arduino, it’s easy to read the signal from the rx and the arduino nano takes almost no space. Then you can program it to send the ESC whatever signal you want when the reed switch is open. But then you’d be adding one more point of failure.
If you’re using a cheap pwm rx as i am, you can reuse part of this code: GitHub - jfitter/12PWMtoPPM328: John's 12 channel PWM to PPM/Serial converter for R/C use. . I tested it a while ago for an rc project and it worked fine reading the rx input.


I worked on my ejection technic today… Did anyone run the FR/Lift motor at 16S? I’m pretty keen to have a go…

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