I’m currently looking into buying a Maytech remote. I have seen the tutorial on how to improve their waterproofness. And I noticed that a lot of them indeed require some attention. Now saw they also sell an esk8 version that is not potted. So I thought since I need to redo it in any case why not buy the cheaper one. Also, I know then that it’s done properly then. The only thing would be the software that is more focused on land use than water. Has anyone tried uploading their foil remote software to an esk8 version remote?
Another question I have can you use a BT module in combination with the receiver of the Maytech since this one will get some data like voltage and current from the VESC. I think I would work since UART should be capable of this.
Just get the cheaper one, it also has RPM display and other telemetry functions via UART. Also works with PPM.
For telemetry, I can highly recommend Metr Pro CAN if you are using a VESC based ESC. Infinity logger looks interesting as well (I have one ordered, but not shipped yet). Infinity logger supports CAN also, but is a much newer product with minimal community feedback so far. Both have support for a GPS and offline logging to an SD card, so no phone needed on a ride. When you get home, you can pull the logs off the units wirelessly.
The power levels feature that the esurf version lacks is actually my preference.
In other words, don’t waste your money on the overpriced version. The 1905 version is actually potted as well. I believe they are physically the same, just different firmware.
I will use this one until @samisin gets his boards printed for his much improved remote.
Yes, it works very well and whatever you set the max % throttle to in each of the three modes becomes the new full throttle at max trigger. So, as you lower your max throttle for more finesse like in wave riding or wake surfing, you will actually gain finer control as well when it is really needed!
I would not recommend you to connect two devices into the same UART port. uSplit might work, but you should really get a VESC with two UARTs if you really need them. FSESC75200 is one option, but check out my teardown for some fixes you might have to do to it. Also, if you get the Metr Pro CAN or the Infinity logger, those support CAN so you don’t really need the second UART unless you have something special in mind.
edit: The link does not seem to work for me, but search for “Flipsky FSESC75200 quick teardown” on this forum and you’ll find it
I noticed a little earlier. Nice small teardown .
Ill need to see how to get the data on my remote and bt module then. Maybe indeed a nother BT module.
I coated all the exposed PCBs (display, throttle) with the silicone conformal coating, and added SuperLube Silicone + PTFE compound to all of the surfaces, especially in the button and display area. The foam is for extra buoyancy. It appears to work well even after submerging it for long periods of time. The only problem is that the SuperLube likes to ooze out of the remote a little bit, but if you wipe it down before using it and don’t store it under your pillow, you’ll be fine.
I would be careful using silicone since it is highly permeable to water vapour. Mutch more than epoxy or PUR since its a water vapour setting product. Silicone will set by the water vapour in the air this is why it sets slower in a lower humidity or quicker in a higher one. This is also why a silicone tube eventually cures all the way once you open it. A two component silicone would still have this but maybe less depending on the type. For epoxy’s, this is mostly much less since an epoxy sets by a chemical reaction and therefore doesn’t have to be designed to let a water vapour trough like a silicone.
I have tried to look online but could find a conclusive test with scientific results between epoxy and silicone.
I found this text by Dave. SR = silicone rubber
Many people do not know the following. Others will refuse to believe it:
Note that SR’s are NOT water vapour proof. Water vapour will permeate through them but liquid water will not. So a container “sealed” with SR will have an internal relative humidity comparable to that outside it! SR is typically about 10x more water permeable than the EVA sealant/adhesive used to bond silicon “solar cells” & glass PV panels together. So a glass-fronted PV panel and a “waterproof” backsheet is also not in fact sealed and inside humidity levels are ~+ outside ones. Keeping LIQUID water off your components is what is required to prevent major corrosion. Fortunately.
Corrosion still occurs with water vapour but at a vastly reduced rate due to the much lower concentration of reactants.
The other requirement is a void-free bond to the component. If there are voids then water vapour can condense to form liquid water and allow corrosion at greatly accelerated rates.
Me again
Thus using SR for the LCD would be risky since the LCD/OLED is highly sensitive to water!
Interesting! Thanks a lot for the input! The silicone + ptfe compound seems to be a popular and proven mod though, so let’s see how it holds up. I’ll let you know if it blows up, luckily the Maytechs are pretty cheap
You are talking about silicone sealant that cures. Yes. Do not use that.
I use silicone grease. It never dries, never hardens. It is an excellent water and moisture barrier. And because it is just silicone grease you can just wipe it off the PCB and inspect for corrosion and reapply as needed.
So far my maytech remotes are still working with these modifications.
Hi Guys,
I already have the Maytech 1905WF V2 and I am thinking of getting the 20WFV2 V2 because of the power mode, that I need for my son who is 10 years old.
Do they use the same receiver or I would have to come up with a system to switch receivers without disconnecting them?
I’m not sure if you can connect 2 remote to 1 receiver since there is 2-way communication. I think it will only connect to one even if you bound 2 because of an address. If you would like to use 2 recievers you would need to make a switch on the PWM signal.
After dropping my foil battery on my remote its screen broke. It only tipped over on top of the remote so actually not that hard but enough to kill it. Also, there was no communication with the OLED anymore and therefore the remote didn’t work, probably crappy code that was looking for an I2C address to make all of them work without adjusting the code. We were about 10km out so quite a tow back with the second board…
At home, I tried with a new screen and it was back to life. So now the hard part, excavating and making a new screen to fit over the new OLED screen
.
