Many poles… More Timing 
That’s normal. My motor sounds like it’s chewing rocks when no load. Perfectly silent when under load. I wouldn’t worry about it.
This seems to be a hight end build, what is your usual power consumption with this set up?
FR Prop installed today. Still havnt been able to get to the lake due to lock down, But messing with it in my 8M pool i can already notice the difference from the 3D printed props i have tried.
The start up is still a little bit clunky, maybe less so than the other props.
Does anyone happen to know what timing should be set on the SEAL 300A opto for the 65151 120Kv motor?
Hi,
my motor seems to be louder now than before. Did somebody find the same behavior? Is it the bearing?
Cheers
Jan
Probably the bearings.
Hi.
These motors are not 100% waterproof. And they have absolutely no oil in them. Even the Lift / FR motor is filled with oil. I know, because I opened my FR motor to check. It a clear mineral oil in that motor.
If you didn’t fill your motor with corrosionX, corrosion is probably your problem. The NSK bearings are good quality. Just open it up and rinse the salt water off. Dry it good. Clean off the surface rust. And fill the motor half way full with corrosionX. I’d guess about 3 to 4 OZ. I’ve been running my motor half full with corrosionX for a couple months now. No problems. It lubricates the bearings and the seal, prevents corrosion, protects against moisture, and shows if you have any leaks because you’ll see the corrosionX leaking out.
The bearings even if rusty will smooth themselves out after you run it a bit with corrosionX in there. As long as they are tight and don’t have any play they will be fine.
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bevor you change the bearing, change the ESC for test.
many ESC are so loud by controll the engine, and you lost many energie.
my outrunners was very loud and i change the timing , but is was not better. Other ESC , and it was quiet and a little more perfomance.
to test a cheap ESC in the 60, - class is enough.
Greetings Frank
Really Interesting to know ! Do you know which oil FR uses ?
Reagrding the weired sound, it is indeed the bearing. I have experienced the same problem with mine. I dismounted it and the problem was not the axial force but rust. The bearing are made of steel. And a small amount of water (2 drops …) ingressed inside from the 2 V-Ring and corroded the bearing.
I opened it, changed the bearing and V Ring and now I am good to go again !
Shouldn’t this be reported to the seller which will then report it to the manufacturer ?
how do you get these things open?
I don’t know what type of oil FR / Lift uses. But, it smelled and felt like a mineral oil. I dumped it out and filled my FR motor with corrosionX.
Hi.
Take off the shaft side. Not the back side with the wires.
Just put a scraper on the edge and hit it with a big hammer. Go slowly all the way around evenly untill it’s out enough to remove by hand. See pictures below.
Be careful you don’t damage the shaft seal or the o-ring seal. Special care of the o-ring when putting back together. Use silicone grease on the o-ring and shaft seal, and Tef-Gel on the flange and the screws when you put it back together or you will never get the screws out again, and will get crevice corrosion.
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Where can I get these kind of bearing?
I have it open now, thanks to @Flightjunkie. Mine was running already several times I had a hard time getting of the cap. If you thinking about opening it, do it early.
How to proceed? Sorry for the questions but I don’t want to mess something up
Looking good. It actually doesn’t look too rusty based on that picture.
Pull the cap off the shaft. Then grab the rotor with a rag and pull the rotor out. It’s just the magnetic force holding it in. Be careful not to damage the copper windings.
Check for rust. Clean it off. If operated in salt water I suggest rinsing off the salt, and letting dry.
You should not need to replace the bearings. As long as they do not have lots of play / wobble in them, they are fine. They will smooth out after you run it awhile with the corrosionX in there.
When buying bearings you look them up by the number on the bearing. Should be easy to find online. But, I’m sure they do not need to be replaced.
Be careful putting the rotor back in that you don’t damage the copper windings. Fill halfway full with corrosionX (half full with the rotor installed), slightly less the half full is better then more then half full. You want space for the rotor to turn freely. Then seal it back up as I described in previous message.
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Would you recommend to apply this CorrosionX process before the very first use, same as your post about how to waterproof a remote Maytech V2 ?
Hi.
Absolutely. The 65161 motor should not even be ran before filling with corrosionX in my opinion. The friction on the seal on the shaft wears surprisingly fast without lubricant. And the bearings need the lubricantion to last.
Before getting wet I opened up and filled both my FR motor, and my 65161 motor with corrosionX.
But, as most of you know by now…I fill everything with corrosionX. My 75/300 VESC is submerged in corrosionX inside it’s waterproof enclosure, as is my Flier ESC.
I lived on sailboats half my life growing up in Hawaii. Learned early on that if you want something to last in the marine environment special care must be taken.
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I found 2 razor blades worked to remove the end.
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Just screw 2 bolts into the rear section of the housing and it’s super easy, you don’t scratch or damage any of the anodising.
