Thanks for showing the 75200 upgraded fittings. I just started a thread on this issue.
Check the 3D print fittings from @windego. The return would take less room than the bent tube version
Can you provide source / info for the fittings and the tubing you are now using.
Well done it looks much better than original.
Curious about how the fitting works. Appears to be some sort of compression fitting?
I’ve added teflon tape and yes, compression fitting; bulletproof!
Some progress on the board, next step will be the vacuum & composites part !
day of the vacuum. All safety measures have been taken into account.
I’ve also adjusted the 3M scotchtape to different areas
and time for some composites. This is going to be harder than steel ! I’ve added a lot of left carbon as reinforcement on key areas. then 3 overlapping carbon tissus and also some fiberglass. Definitely overkill.
20°C curing !
it went pretty well !
I’ve fixed remaining holes with qcells and epoxy on the bottom of the deck
Curing !
some of you asked for it, so here we go. That’s the upgrade I did to the pretty poor water intakes on the Flipsky controller
this morning I’ve sanded the other side of the “board” and added the fibers. Under vacuum.
Before
After
I’ve also bought two of these to attach the boogie rope. one per USBOX. I expect them to be rock solid according to the specs. Probably overkill.
this morning, I sanded the bottom and will come back to it with more colors later on. I’ll make it more funky in the future with less separation on colors.
I also took care of the top.
good day folks !
I added a pressure plug this week and also sanded the top/bottom before the next step : glassing.
I love the colors and effort you put into this! I’m just started building a tow boogie but being the lazy person I am, I just bolt all the stuff to a body board. Will be super interesting to see how this turns out!
This is looking great. Keep sharing your pictures of the build.
thanks man ! big update today. I sanded 260/500/1000/2000 and polished the board. It’s ultra gloss.
now that the board is roughly done, I’m now adding some nice INOX looking parts.
That’s for the tail.
I’ve assembled the board with the motor mast/pod to address the wiring and cabling to the battery & electronic box while making everything plug and play.
I also bought a pretty nice looking handle.
I’m now going to buy and use SIKAFLEX F11C to secure the PG9 & PG11 cable passages.
I also have in plans to 3D print a device (PETG) to secure the PG9 waterproof parts that host the motor bullets to make it neat.
Enjoy !
did this to keep things neat. I decided to go for 19mm thickness although it’s not needed. Just to match my 3M VHB Tape 5952F 
I like it. thoughts?
with this done, I’m now going to setup the internals of the electronic components.
I’m now looking at the FESC 75200 & Maytech MTSKR1905WF setup.
The FESC 75200 has a lot of wiring possibilities but for our usage, I’ll just use
I’ll need to cut two wires to isolate TX & RX from the existing FESC cable and connect them to the Maytech receiver.
For the firmware, I’ll flash it with no limits and keep it to 5.2 and remove the filtering as stated on the company website.
does anyone have at hand a STL of a box to host the Maytech remote receiver?
What I’ve done is printed a small bottom part box just high enough to the edge of the connectors, and filed it with epoxy (needed to remove the RF shield to make sure the epoxy did go in this too).
I replaced the RF shield after making sure it was all covered underneath.
So now all the connectors are still accessible, but the rest is covered with epoxy.
http://www.gaddo.com/temp/radio-rx-box-v3.stl