I have used normal rubber cable 3g2.5 combined with spiral waist leash. Keeps the cable out of the water. Use plastic strips in both ends to offload the cable vs leash stretch.
Overboard 4liter waist bag works great with 12s2p and Flycolor 150A Esc. No cooling needed.
Flycolor 150A is in my opinion the absolute best controller available on Aliexpress. Works right out of the box, no need to configure anything, no problems with overheating and synchronization.
Better than XCross 160? I know people have had problems with XCross but the only issue we have found is that they cut out over approx 2000W. Have used at least 10 and no failures at all with XCross as foil assist.
Each has its own operating conditions. Here are a couple of non-working ones. Brown stain on the mat from the X-Cross that exploded on my desk.
Hi,
Can you please share some more info regarding the coiled leash length, the 3g2.5 cable length and these plastic strips you mentioned?
Would be great to see some pictures of the leash\cable setup
Thanks
I tried a few options, windsurfing waist harness, small backpack and finally a curved rigid plastic as a fabric free backpack. Lightweight and cools more readily because it’s more exposed to air and water.
The plastic is 6.4mm Kings Starboard, it’s thermosetting HDPE.
I’ve made a pull apart connector from Tpu that houses three 5.5mm AliExpress bullet connectors. It seals well and the Tpu flexibility works much better than the earlier petg version where alignment was super critical.
This connector will not enable direction switch
No, direction switch is set by wiring and programming - means you don’t have to worry about orientation. Just plug it in and no matter the rotation it goes in the right direction.
Sure you can change it with programming. I suppose it is easy with vesc.
But for example blheli32 testing version works only on windows.
Easiest is to swap wires. But round connector does not help here. I use mr60 after cutting the inside notch.
I’ve got two motors and two ‘battery boxes’ with XCross esc set up. Can mix and match depending on board and how much battery I want. They are all configured the same way. I check before I solder the motors. In the process of creating a small lightweight motor (6354) setup for my downwind board, just finishing carbon tube through the board for short cable access and will set that up with the same direction orientation. Much easier if everything is wired to match.
Hi, man thank you fro sharing. Being on the hunt for the coil cable for a while now, is it possible to know how many A you run on average and during the bursts and if the cable behaves well enough?
I’ve measured original FD2 with 11S3P uses 25A on average and 40-45A during takes offs, which puts 2.5mm2 sections to the limit (on the paper) making it not an easy choice to make
Hello,
I’m always set to 50 amp battery side, I don’t know motor side (X Cross 160 amp ESC)
I took 3G2.5 since the beginning on my foil assists projects like FD. It’s within the limits of the wires but, it’s only on short burst and in water environment so colder than if it’s was dry.
Has anyone noticed a significant drop in power when moving to the back pack?
I’ve added nearly 1 m of wire to my old assist system, a new motor and a cable joint.
With the box mounted on the deck I could easily efoil on with a 10s 2p battery, while this is not the aim, the new system is just about reaching the speed to start engaging the foil.
I can eliminate the joint by connecting my old system back up and testing, if its not the joint I’ll be a bit stuck.
The esc gets warm but not hot in the back pack as does the joiner, but I’m not sure thats not because of the heat caused by the esc?
What kind of cable do you have? 3x2,5?
With 10S you should take a 3x4. The small cable cross-section creates a heat problem with the current. This leads to a high voltage drop across the cable. This results in less power being delivered to the motor.
I’m using a 3x2.5 at 12s. This also gets a bit warm, but I haven’t noticed any loss of power from the motor.
