Prop design share

Here is the efficiency curve of the motor from Maytech, interesting to see the max efficiency is reached at high RPM around 7200 (if i read the graph well ) . The motor seems untested at more than 7500 RPM

Actually in my previous post 2500 RPMs left is not too bad?

For vesc limit, i remember running with no limit software, but i remember maytech telling me in duty cycle control, the output can be a bit limited compared to current control? Anyway not good for the motor to go too close to its max RPM?

ah i just read the second paragraph you added, I will ask Maytech for max RPM limit, not written online

Classic Maytech quality there, output power seems higher than input so it’s a perpetuum mobile machine… but what they did is they scaled the different axis to make it look better (and make the curves useless)

true :sweat_smile:
I am now thinking the 5 pitch prop from Flipsky could have been a good compromise

@superlefax …what pitch is the TK tuning set prop??
Cheers
K

It’s 6,5" pitch. With it, the Takuma runs @40 km/h (instead of 30 km/h)

There are from my own production. Is use them on a generic 6384 outrunner motor @130KV and 12S

they look great!
Is your design file parametric (pitch, diameter, shaft)? Could you share your file?

Hey guys,
While changing my propeller, i discoverd the pin i used was not stainless steel and it is stuck inside the motor axis because of corrosion. I tried WD 40 Specialist Penetrant without success. Any idea to remove the pin without damaging motor?

Theoretically, it should not be stainless steel. It is meant to break, and I believe it’s made from brass.

Brute Force! Best would be a press, but if you put the shaft on a piece of wood, you could also try with a hammer.

Mine are all stainless, best to put some grease on them. The brass was meant to protect the gearbox (break before the gearbox), no need with direct drive.

You can try to heat and cool it a few cycles to break up the corrosion, wrap the shaft with wet paper on the motor side first, this keeps the max temp below 100c, and heat just a bit with a torch, cool it with penetrating oil like wd40 or similar. Then try to press it out. If push comes to shove, cut it as close to the axle as possible and tap it out.

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If you have access to a vice, you could use it as a press.
Apply penetrating oil like WD40 a couple of more times…
Choose one of the half pins, put two or three nuts around it longer than the half pin length.
Press both the visible pin part and the nuts between the jaws of a vice,
Add one nut at a time on the outgoing pin and press until the incoming pin is flush with the motor axle.
Remove the pin with a plier, the vice, or hit with a nail or a nail chaser…

Will this design work for my flite air? I am from India and parts are not available here.

Not fit with original shaft

I don’t have a flite service center in india. I broke my propeller. I need to get a 3d printed propeller. Only found your stl file. Can you please help me to get the stl file for the original flite propeller?

Or a propeller design that would fit on my fliteboard air 1. Plz :pray:

give drawing of your shaft with dimensions. I will make modifications for you


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it was hard to measure exact length. i have tried to be accurate as much as possible.