In my experience, balancing the battery case over the board is critical. Inches in either direction make a big difference. I adjusted mine over the course of a dozen sessions getting it tuned. Generally speaking, mid center of the board works best for me. In fact, if my straps weren’t snug, I could tell when the box shifted on the board during a session, and I would have to make corrective adjustments.
Also, the trim tab plays a big role. The location, angle, and length of the trim tab was the other part I adjusted a lot.
I’m in San Diego and have most of the tools and miscellaneous parts left over from my build; I’m happy to share with those in the area. For example, I bought pack of 20, and needed 4, etc… Oh, I have a gallon of CorrosionX; so if you need a few ounces for your motor, I’ll top you off.
Deciding where to source can be a headache. Ali Express/Amazon vs. what’s locally available. The odds and ends add up. It’s time and money, and I really just wanted to be on the water.
I didn’t have a 3D printer before my build, or any Fusion 360 experience, but decided to get one and learn. After all, I needed the motor clamps. In hindsight, I love the printer, use it constantly, but it cost time to get up to speed.
I’ve benefited a lot from this group, and thus I’m happy to share where I can.
Also, it would be great to connect with others in the area, see your build, and the fun your having…
Speaking of major improvements. This extension on the end of the line holder that brings the line below the water line allows the front of the boogie to keep the nose down while also allowing the battery case to be pulled back.
So here’s my analysis. Having weight further back allows the boogie to keep its nose above the waterline at the bottom of the face of the wave/swell. So by placing the tow line below the plane of the board, water starts become a lot easier with the nose more likely to stay low. With weight back it handles better on the bottom face of swell and is less likely to duck dive.
Hello Tom!
Do you have one boggie tow for sale? I would like to buy one fom you.
Can you please get in contact with me?
My email is: adp.sbh@gmail.com
Thanks!
Andrea
Always a pleasure to discover the latest news.
This ring under the board bottom must generate some drag.
To keep the benefit of the line below the water line without the drag, a triangle-shaped fin (NACA cross section) could be used.
I’ve tried experimenting with different shapes. Not much benefit in efficiency but depending on shape of the section what direction the board turns to naturally. Issues I’ve is with making a more triangular section was strength of the piece. It would always fail at the front where there is the least material. I have an idea in mind but the tow boogie is taking a back seat as the wind season picks up.
Has anyone worked on remote control steering (other than wave escort)? I understand you use body weight / pull to steer in general, but it would be nice to have some steering to at least get the board going in the right direction after you let go and catch a swell. Obviously the return to foiler would be ideal, but having some basic steering would be a nice first step.
Also after a couple years in the water, anyone have an opinion on the ideal length / width of the board?
I tried it, but position of rudder was not good. steering was soso. if it would be right behind the prop should work fine. As I do not like towing so much a did not work further on this one.
