Ooops, sorry 
Post #23 (no metr)
1 Like
Are we still talking about a c80100 motor?
Yes. All logs from 80100
Hi, new here but already started to get parts for the project…Then i realized this forum is huge and i did not have all the info. I already have a 400A22S Flier esc and a 380KV 56114sss. Than i figured that a direct drive would be a better choice so i am considering the 80100 with the 400A flier or the 200A flipsky Vesc. @V_S Is the Flipsky a much better choice over the Flier (Banggood180eur vs Flier 350) ? I would like to replicate your build, i like it a lot !
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192912758552
Having already a good motor and feasible ESC, why you don’t get something like this cheap but very good Nema 23 gearbox instead? It needs a little adapting, lathe down the flange and reduce the diameter less than a millimeter to match the motor.
Not all the gearboxes are the same, this is ok, my buddy had almost 30 hours on this, with a TP power motor, stronger than the SSS, I got it and will go on my next build in place of the Neugart. Outrunners are ok but you’re almost there with inrunner geared solution which is the definitive one…
@MaB Lol, It is underway already, planning to beef it up with bearings. Bought it from banggood so no taxes and no customs hassle which i had with the flier…But still outrunner in direct drive is much more simpler. Will test both anyhow.
No.
Flier ESC is a easy Setup, Rocksolid and easy to use.
The Flipsky needs to be setup correct and cant handle so much power continous like a Flier.
But it deliveres Data
1 Like
Thanks, i will stick to the Flier then. The choice of the motor is 80 or 130 KV ? Which one should be better ? Regarding safety about the propeller cover it is a issue to others or injuring yourself ?
I use the 80kV. All my Props are designed for the 80kV.
The 130kV will work for sure too, but Props have to be less Pitch.
And higher rpm are less efficiant, i guess.
So i would Go for the 80kV
1 Like
Than 80KV it is ! APS is a good source ?
Thanks
Attila
How much current are you guys pulling at wide open throttle and how much does it take to cruise comfortably?
I just did a static test in a pool (board pushing against side of pool) with my 80100 setup and was pulling around 220A on12S at wide open throttle! I have my timing set to 30degrees to avoid sync issues (cant go lower without problems) and am running a flier 400A ESC. Wires in my battery box were getting really hot. Even the 8 gage wires going down the mast to the motor were almost 100C and for sure would have gotten much hotter if i ran it at that current for very long. Thats almost 10000W of power. This seems way too high right? I was running the two blade version of this prop (cant remember where i found the file but pretty sure it was from someone that was using the same motor). I have filled the magnet gaps in my rotor as well (although not nearly as nice as some of the rotors i have seen on here).
Any idea what might be going on? I cant imagine this is right. At that rate ill be burning through my 20000mah 12S setup in no time.
Which propeller?
80kV or 130kV?
its the 80 KV and using your 2 blade prop.
I guess the Problem is “static”.
This “test” is useless
No one does a kickdown with his Car with pulled handbreak, wondering why the Clutch is Smoking😂
Yes i think you are right. I was surprised i could get to around 10000W when the motor was rated for only 7000. I tested a 54mm alien outrunner motor before (like 2 years ago) and could not get it to pull more than its rated current even with a way too massive prop. Cant wait to try this thing out in the water for real this time!
I wouldn’t say so.
1- It would have been more informative with a (bathroom) scale between the wall and the foil/motor to know the brute force of this drive train,
2- the best information is probably that we know that this 400A FLIER ESC is a trustworthy one. Nobody will ever meet these conditions 
I was mostly doing it so I could stress test the system at wot while keeping an eye on current and temps of the various parts and connections inside my electronics box. Stuff defiantly gets hot at 200+ Amps. Speed controller barely got warm but is watercooled with a small closed loop system. 8awg wires and xt150 connections seemed to get the hottest around 200F even with 200A runs of only 10 or so seconds. I was just surprised at how much current it did draw albeit static.
I like your build. I have been looking carefully at your photos. I am considering doing my next board similar to yours. Yours is very light and uses batteries similar to my configuration. It appears the thin box would do a good job of carrying the loads from the mast. I am wondering how you did a few things. What tool did you use to cut those keys in the thin plywood? You have screws between the battery compartment and the electronics compartment, what stops the water from flowing down those screws in to the electronics and battery compartments? Or maybe your threaded inserts have bottoms so the water can’t get through that way? Is it just one layer of fiberglass on the board? Does the wooden box have fiberglass fabric inside the box or is it just epoxy coated?
1 Like
Plywood is cut with bandsaw and Router table
Threaded Inserts have a bottom, yes
Its 2-3Layer Glass in Board
1-2 Layer glas inside Box
Sorry I’m late to the party Volker, just a quick note to say thanks for the great build log. Some good solutions to make a nice finished board. I’m particularly interested with the propellers you made and the data you got. Im looking to cast a folding propeller in bronze and was wondering if it would be ok to use one of your models to modify and cast? If so, could you tell me which one you think would be a good candidate for such a project?
You can check out the thread if you’re interested.
https://foil.zone/t/community-designed-produced-folding-propellor/16532
Mani