The Teensy is basically just an Arduino, just a bit more powerful. Programming and uploading programs is done form the Arduino IDE or like me, from Visual Studio with the VisualMicro extension.
Right now the receiver is just a bluetooth module, connected directly to the Flipsky VESC. The next thing will be to finish my receiver, that will extend the functionality with battery information, controlling the water pump, managing GPS data and so on
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ok thank you, so if I use a USB module on a VESC no need for a file for the receiver, the file to download on the transmitter is where because I can’t find an “.ino”
Absolutly amazing job!
This is the remote I will use in my project.
Question
In what material are you printing the remote? ABS PLA PET…?
Br
Magnus (Mon72)
Gothenburg
I’m using PLA but I guess you can use both ABS and PET
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Thanks,
I will start to print the remote components right away tomorrow.
Looking forward to order your circuitboard, build it and test the software against the rest…
It looks awsome!
Br
Magnus
Very nice work, bravo. If I get the circuit boards right, will they be available for purchase? I’d be interested, too, if it’s still possible.
Thank you.
@Manu No, I will not sell mine.The Gerber files I have published, is for everyone to order their own, from the manufacturer of their choice
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Update on the sun visibility problem
I found 15 small 1206 smd leds in my drawer. Don’t know the specs, don’t remember where I bought them but any how. In the first attempt I just soldered the leds together in parallel and mounted them behind the LCD.
Big failure! I just saw stars and I don’t think any diffuser can fix that problem.
So back to the drawing board. So what if I created a small mould, glued the leds to the side of the wall, filled the mould with clear epoxy resin and spray painted the back and sides for preventing the light to escape. Here is the result.
!
It’s not perfect, not as good as putting my torch behind the LCD but I think I’m on to something, considering that all 15 leds only draws 150 mA, that’s 10 mA per led. I’m quite sure I can find leds that draws 20 or 30 mA, have to look that up and order some.
Also, compared to my daughters iPhone 8, I think I have much better readability. No point showing the iPhone in direct sunlight. Didn’t see much.
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Hi
Regarding ordering with the gerberfile… would you say that the circuitboard in it’s final version or should we wait a while until you are finished with this amazing remote project.
Br
Magnus
Hej Magnus, alltid trevligt med en landsman på tråden.
Well, I would perhaps wait until I’ve tested the PCB, hopefully later this week If I haven’t had a total barinfart, most of the things can be fixed with small patches. The extra led for sunlight visibility CAN be connected to the existing LED pin on the display, perhaps just changing one PNP transistor (Q2) to a more powerful one. But ultimately I will change the PCB slightly, perhaps a new connector for the extra leds and a new connector for the IMU because it might not fit between the PCB and the display any more.
I will wait untill working circuit board and control. otherwise I will just have to order a new board.
What motor and controler do you use for your foil. Any thoughts about the batterypack yet?
Br
Magnus
I’m using the Flipsky 200A VESC and the FS65161 motor. I will start with the battery pack (13s12p) I used for my Segway a couple of years ago (hopefully it will be enough)
1 Like
How did you make the tactile switches waterproof? Epoxy the silicone caps into the lid or something?
@Mantafoils suggested one but since they are doing well in direct sun light but rather small, what about using two Maytech V2 remote OLED screens side by side ?
I used something called Tec7, It’s a kind of flexible glue.
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Yes, that might be one way to go, but I have one problem though. I don’t have enough pins left on my Teensy to run SPI on two displays. I2C can perhaps be used instead, but that will slow down the refresh rate significantly.
Following @samisin sugesstion from an earlier post, I ordered two Newhaven NHD-2.4-240320CF-BSXV-F displays, and on Friday I got a package from Mouser. After spending some hours coding on Saturday I finally got the ST7789 driver to play with my Teensy and luckily we had some sun today and here is the result.
Quite impressive if I may say.
BUT i have also spent a couple of hours on the internet, reading up on TFT displays vs sunlight and have found that there are two (perhaps more) types of TFT displays, the most common one called transmissive (like the cheap AliExpress display and the Newhaven) and then there is tranflective, which is actually using the surrounding light helping the backlight to “light up” the display
Compare sunlight readable TFT with regular TFT LCD Module
So far I’ve found two candidates.
https://www.displaymodule.com/collections/tft/products/2-0-240x320-transflective-display-panel-spi-mcu-rgb
I will follow up the Newhaven and transflective displays later but right now I have to concentrate to get my foil in the water with what I’ve got, so don’t expect any big results in the near future.
Unfortunately, DHL has estimated the PCB:s to be delivered May 4 
. That means my attention will go to the board and the receiver for the next week.
3 Likes
I love when the postman knocks on the door. DHL estimated the PCB:s to be delivered on Monday but they came yesterday. 10 new shining PCB:s
I soldered the components yesterday.
BUT, the idiot designing this (that would be me) forgot to add two resistors, making two of the transistors become burning hot. The resistors are present on the breadboard but It doesn’t matter how many times you review, you always forget something but I’m quite inexperienced at this so I use that as an excuse.
Luckily it’s quite easy to patch, just cutting two lines and add two 2k2 resistors. I have used small smd resistors (which are a bitch to solder) but any resistor can be used, it just looks nicer with the smd:s
So, the display and the bluetooth module works. I will just test the other modules to make sure that the designer idiot has not forgotten anything else and then update the Gerber files and parts list before I order a new set. One other change will be made. The IMU doesn’t fit on the PCB any more due to the backlight. A connector will be added instead
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No excuses needed, u are keeping it pretty fuken up! 
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I’m speechless. Well done! This is just so excellent. Putting an IMU is an interesting design choice. It would not be difficult to train a neural network to learn the pattern in the IMU sensors readings associating with falling/bailing. Use the output neurons of this neural network as inputs for the motor controller system - kill the motor when you fall. I was planning to train a network on IMU data associated with the board (tilting too much is indicative of future failure) however the remote looks like a better point to collect data for this task. Just outstanding work. Keep it going!
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I forgot to say thank you for sharing this. The Maytech remote is really a bandaid solution for efoil.builders in my mind. It is closed to improvement and will not move the industry along. A project like this being done in the open is a huge step forward for the community. Can’t praise this enough!