DIY 6384 Foil Drive Assist from South Germany

Thx.

Sure:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/18NS5-KH-6npabgDhCWVyHdveJ6HT6tdi

awesome thank you for that

Hi @hangloose, how is the waterproofing of the motor keeping up? Would you recommend it? Thanks!

I would always waterproof a new Ali motor with thermal epoxy.
Otherwise, buy a Flipsky 6384 waterproof and replace the ceramic bearings with stainless ones if you want to avoid the hassle of epoxying.

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Hi @hangloose have you published this STL anywhere?

Just as an alternative perspective. I’ve been using the cheap Aliexpress 6384 without waterproofing very successfully. Stainless bearings and upgrade cables and cut off shaft but basically soak motor in Corrosion X for a couple of days then simply spray after each use. Over 12 months with current motor used in salt water/surf at least 4 times per week. Not a hint of corrosion, not even discolouring of magnets, nothing to indicate any corrosion. I have epoxy encapsulated previously but won’t bother ever again.

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I just uploaded the file to Printables!

MT-60 Waterproof Connector → MTW-60 :slight_smile: von hangloose | Kostenloses STL-Modell herunterladen | Printables.com

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nice design ! what connectors fit ? can it be used with 8,0mm banana connectors on 10awg ?

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Even 8awg is possible. However, only the LMT-6 gold connectors fit, as the connector was designed for this. The LMT-6 can handle up to 400A. That should be sufficient for any application.

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damn, only available in germany, shipping cost is crazy :crazy_face: i’m out :sweat_smile:

The same thing happens to me, 50% short. How do you solve it?

@Mev I use these with no problem, the 6mm version. I doubt they’re as efficient as the LMT6 but I don’t need anywhere near 400a on my tow boogie. Needs some careful attention when installing to make sure they’re square and well coupled as they’re smaller diameter bases. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLoU2Z5

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Hey Markus, awesome builds. I have decided to go a similar route with my build. Maybe you mentioned it already but how have the sealed bearings you are using holding up? Where you do ge them?

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Thanks. I’m still using the open bearings at the moment. I have the sealed ones as a spare.

https://www.kugellager-express.de/edelstahl-kugellager-ss-6800-61800-2rs-10x19x5-mm

https://www.kugellager-express.de/edelstahl-kugellager-ss-6900-61900-2rs-10x22x6-mm

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Looks like I need to find a U.S. distributor for the bearings, cost too much to ship. I also looked into the Bopla box you used, also too much to ship. I will keep looking.

Hello everyone.

I haven’t posted here in a long time.
The reason was buying an apartment this year, and I didn’t have time for tinkering.
A complete renovation was complicated enough.

But now winter is coming, and I want to replace my Ali 6384 BDUAV with the 6384 Flipsky.
The motors arrived today and make a very good impression.

One motor will go on the assist mast and the other on the eFoil mast.
Some of you might be wondering why the change. Better quality than the Ali DIY setup, and I think better performance.

My next step will be to replace the ceramic bearings.

Hey, welcome back!
My first bduav 120kv is going strong, after many sessions, on 4 different pods/mounts, dangling from the phase wires a few times, being quite rusted ang going on the third set of bearings :joy:

My main complaint is the ridiculous thin phase wires.

Why did you choose ceramic bearings?

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The Flipsky motors are heavier and less efficient than the buad. However, the waterproofing is pretty good and therefore requires much less maintenance.

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When ordering from Flipsky, you can’t choose the bearings.
The motors always come with ceramic bearings. However, I know from my experience with my Saite 63100 that the ceramic bearings only lasted an hour.

That’s why I’m switching directly to stainless steel.

Sorry I misread!
Food for though

6900 bearing max dynamic load = 1270 N

1270*0.25 = 317N of axial force before the bearing fails.

317 newtons is not a lot of kg, most foil setups seem to provide between 30 and 50 kg of force.

The 6384 have two front bearing taking the axial load, but two is barely better than one in this case.

From what I could find, ceramic and stainless are supposed to have similar load ratings, but probably handle axial shocks and overload differently. I wonder what part of failures can be attributed to the disassemble / reassemble shock due to magnetic pull when it snaps back together.

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