First we packed just ESC in it and later on we used bigger boxes for batteries as well… we already knew key point for this 20minutes drives would be exchangeablity of the battery… That was challenging and when I see what foildrive made out of it I´m prowd as well because we know we were just ahead of time, and now its the right time to go this way… But as we worked on similar as well we know that FoilDrive will encounter issues concerning waterproofing of this housing and as well connectors. And for the price they ask this will not get a super seller… But wait for next season, several similar system will come at half price and then such a system is just perfect for all of us foil lovers and it will make traveling possible as you can take it on the airplane too…
From the DIY stand point I like the @okp idea. Because this design can be 3d printed or at least iterated at home because it does not bear a load.
It can be extended to both the front and back. The batteries can be placed in 3 compartments (4th is the ESC). These 3 compartments can form a whole battery part, which will be connected / disconnected
to the ESC part similar in the idea to the foil drive V2.
that’s what I’m talking about. what if we use only 4 M4 screws to fit the nose to the rear part. I’m sure we can get a super solid build using only MJF PA12
The honest truth is I was planning on bringing out a commercial product, but then I realised trying to spool up a supply chain was going to be a very large task for a product like this and I simply didn’t have the time…
There are a few options for the casing:
CNC acetal with an aluminium plate.
CNC aluminium
Pour mold bottom with aluminium top.
There are a few changes I need to make to the designs before I build a proto though. The big bonus is in my design the batteries can fly on a plane…
I’m going to go Elevate’s way and get this out of PA12. This is just to test the fit on my mast. No need for aluminium here. My mast baseplate is already made out of it.
I’m going for a custom 4’2 board that will host the Camdenboss box, so no waterproof challenge on the battery side. This will sit flush on my mast with a top cover for dust and everything will be covered with power gel. Motor cables will naturally go in this box via the mast.
Bushing isn’t the right way to do it, it would create 4 point loads on the board and cause damage. The plate needs to distribute the load over the board to work properly.
yes, agreed with the large printer. I have a bigger one but this Prusa mini plus is so dope and make clean prints that I’ve put my CR 10S custom aside.
the main dissipator is on the other side of the ESC. a super large thermal dissipator.
Really curious about this aspect. About to try running it in the enclosure without any cooling; hoping a 100x100 heat sink sitting in direct contact has enough heat dissipation through the wall of the enclosure to remove any need to cut/externally mount it. Fingers crossed!
Does the 12s1P setup at 44V reduce thermal dissipation (half the current/resisitive load) relative to a 6s2p at 22V?
We could start by our kitchens, the airtight coffe pot mecanism (rectangular or round) could be recovered and reused on a reprinted FDA waterproof box
Needs a bit of tweaking to be more flush.
