this should be fine! I’m wondering which ESC did Foil Drive use and that can fit the very small area. I’ve searched for a similar heatsink (the one they display below) but didn’t manage to find an ESC with such heatsink. I believe it’s a custom heatsink (but I’m surprised!)
I am tempted to buid one for this specific purpose.
but in wining you already have the wing power, so why not use a 50xx, as it was mentioned earlier? Smaller motor and prop should add neglible drag.
Flipsky already has a waterproofed one and given the lower amps, a 6S1P of p42a should be enough. Less than 1KG in total!
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The 5085 seems like a better option for our purpose!
I’ve chosen the 6384 simply to test it, cause several lighter people seem to use it successfully on efoil. And as couple of my friends who are lighter are also looking to build an efoil, that would be the cheapest option by far. Hence the 6384 to try it out and see its capabilities.
I’ve tried my 6374 motor setup for winging and I don’t really like it. The drag from the motor even high on the mast is noticeable, feels like the handbrake is left on. The motor does help to get going in light wind but so does good technique and the right gear. I found the motor thrust very unnatural when trying to start, the nose of the board wants to jump out of the water. For supfoil the motor is great as you can weight your front foot, however with a wing above your head it’s harder to keep pressure on the board. Maybe a lightweight <2kg small motor setup is the answer.
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Made an adapter to mount the setup on my inflatable paddle board fin. Will plane off at full power pulling 55 amps.
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I have an Armstrong mast which tapers outwards towards the top so a simple profile doesn’t fit as nice it could.
For a bit of a challenge i used photogrammetry (lots of photos stitched together to make a 3d model) and then fixed splines to this in Fusion360 to create a solid parametric model. This model can then can be used for the guide the pod. A bit of an overkill but was a fun process to learn and could be used by others for getting approximations of board or propellor shapes. All you need is your phone, good light and a few minutes to capture the shape.
Work flow
- Polycam on iOS, take lots of photos. A dusting of talcum powder or cocaine helps with the detail.
- Export as GLTF (free)
- Convert to STL using an online tool.
- Open with fusion360
- Create several planes in which to the draw profiles.
- Draw profiles as closes as possible to the STL. Using sectional analysis helps with this.
- Draw connecting rails passing though profiles. Project/ intersect helps with getting points on the profiles.
- Loft though the profiles using the rails as guides.
- Check and adjust.
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Now this is awesome. I have been looking for a way to scan objects without an uber expensive handheld laser. This will come in handy on several projects I am working on. Thankyou very much for sharing and outlining the process.
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I’ve been spending a bit of time trying to come up with a tool free/ part free method of attaching a pod to a mast. I like the philosophy “the best part is no part, nothing to loose, nothing to break”…
Here’s one of my concepts. Not as sleek as I would like, but seems pretty solid and only takes a few seconds to attach. Because of the stretch in the strap this means its an almost universal fit for any mast type
Another advantage is that it’s is more compact overall - The motor sits closer to the mast because you don’t need the 10mm thick base plate like on many versions, and there is no nose cone out the front that leashes can get caught on.
Has anyone else come up with a tool free attachment method?
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Nice design. My remarks:
- you’ll need a screw driver to attach the motor anyway because of the cables
- tool free but is it drag free ?
- there’s some rotational torque on this part so your manoeuvre could feel loose / not precise,
- I would suggest the hinge on the mast leading edge maintained from the trailing edge. Hum, isn’t it @Manu’s solution ?
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thanks for the feedback @SoEFoil
The motor stays permanently attached to the pod, so no screws necessary for that in day to day use.
Not drag free, but could be made a more streamlined. Here’s the next iteration that could be improved further with a thinner strap. Still need to figure out the tensioning method for the strap.
The torque should be fine - the more the motor pushes the harder the pod wedges on to the mast.
I couldn’t find @Manu’s version, have you got a link?
thanks
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You have an Armstrong mast. @Manu has designed this pod for a Gong V2 alu mast. The files are available here on thingiverse: New foil gong for the end of April - #23 by Manu
@jeffM adapted his Fusion files to a Gong carbon mast. You can find Jeff’s files in this thread Gong Carbon Mast Clamp
Maybe the next step will be toolless on an Armstrong mast 
?
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they maybe using this one
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hi guys,
I looked at this website for batteries - does anyone have a recommendation which ones would come the closest to the FDA+ setup? (28.8V/12.6 AH/ 362.8 WH) and which Brand/type and charger to use ?
https://voltaplex.com/lithium-ion-battery-pack?s_capacity_max_a=12-13&s_volt_nominal=26.72-28.98
Thanks all!
Whats the point of using 8S? The nice thing about the foildrive is that its super cheap. Your can use a 6s 50eur esc.
Unless your esc is limited to 8s, if youre buying a 12s esc, i’d go all the way to 12s batt. Then youll have a real efoil.
Cells like the p42 can deliver high amps even at low cell count (Wh), so you can keep the battery weight down
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Pretty sure the FDA+ uses a 8s3p 2170 pack with a semi custom 8s li-ion Daly BMS. This BMS is pretty had to find, but you can ask for it via the daly official aliexpress page and they will send you one.
I have the same box as the FDA+ and a can fit a 8S pack as above + a HobbyWing EzRun MAX6 ESC .
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Damn, that looks like a product photo 
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More power for a marginal weight gain! 8S ESC’s are still very cheap.
@Pablo @Stongram great points and thanks for feedback! I think trying to get 12S to work would be great - maybe make it flexible with a smallee battery for travel? Seems thats what fd tries to do with the new battery choice? Has anyone worked on a 12S version already?
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@Jezza . I though that once you go over 6S, the price goes up significantly, either if you chose 8S, 12S or wathever ( i mean, you can get 8s or 12s esc for 110-150 eur. I agree it’s not expensive, but it still is twice as much compared to the 6S esc)
@DIY for a 12S build you can use all the info of the forum regarding real efoil builds. There are several threads covering 6384 , 63100 wet outrunners.
As for travelling with a batt, I think even the standard foildrive batt is not flight legal. Perhaps you could split it into 3 blocks ( if i recall correctly the limit is 100wh / pack, please check )
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