I have an Armstrong mast which tapers outwards towards the top so a simple profile doesn’t fit as nice it could.
For a bit of a challenge i used photogrammetry (lots of photos stitched together to make a 3d model) and then fixed splines to this in Fusion360 to create a solid parametric model. This model can then can be used for the guide the pod. A bit of an overkill but was a fun process to learn and could be used by others for getting approximations of board or propellor shapes. All you need is your phone, good light and a few minutes to capture the shape.
Work flow
Polycam on iOS, take lots of photos. A dusting of talcum powder or cocaine helps with the detail.
Export as GLTF (free)
Convert to STL using an online tool.
Open with fusion360
Create several planes in which to the draw profiles.
Draw profiles as closes as possible to the STL. Using sectional analysis helps with this.
Draw connecting rails passing though profiles. Project/ intersect helps with getting points on the profiles.
Loft though the profiles using the rails as guides.
Now this is awesome. I have been looking for a way to scan objects without an uber expensive handheld laser. This will come in handy on several projects I am working on. Thankyou very much for sharing and outlining the process.
I’ve been spending a bit of time trying to come up with a tool free/ part free method of attaching a pod to a mast. I like the philosophy “the best part is no part, nothing to loose, nothing to break”…
Here’s one of my concepts. Not as sleek as I would like, but seems pretty solid and only takes a few seconds to attach. Because of the stretch in the strap this means its an almost universal fit for any mast type
Another advantage is that it’s is more compact overall - The motor sits closer to the mast because you don’t need the 10mm thick base plate like on many versions, and there is no nose cone out the front that leashes can get caught on.
Has anyone else come up with a tool free attachment method?
The motor stays permanently attached to the pod, so no screws necessary for that in day to day use.
Not drag free, but could be made a more streamlined. Here’s the next iteration that could be improved further with a thinner strap. Still need to figure out the tensioning method for the strap.
@jeffM adapted his Fusion files to a Gong carbon mast. You can find Jeff’s files in this thread Gong Carbon Mast Clamp
Maybe the next step will be toolless on an Armstrong mast ?
I looked at this website for batteries - does anyone have a recommendation which ones would come the closest to the FDA+ setup? (28.8V/12.6 AH/ 362.8 WH) and which Brand/type and charger to use ?
Whats the point of using 8S? The nice thing about the foildrive is that its super cheap. Your can use a 6s 50eur esc.
Unless your esc is limited to 8s, if youre buying a 12s esc, i’d go all the way to 12s batt. Then youll have a real efoil.
Cells like the p42 can deliver high amps even at low cell count (Wh), so you can keep the battery weight down
Pretty sure the FDA+ uses a 8s3p 2170 pack with a semi custom 8s li-ion Daly BMS. This BMS is pretty had to find, but you can ask for it via the daly official aliexpress page and they will send you one.
I have the same box as the FDA+ and a can fit a 8S pack as above + a HobbyWing EzRun MAX6 ESC .
@Pablo@Stongram great points and thanks for feedback! I think trying to get 12S to work would be great - maybe make it flexible with a smallee battery for travel? Seems thats what fd tries to do with the new battery choice? Has anyone worked on a 12S version already?
@Jezza . I though that once you go over 6S, the price goes up significantly, either if you chose 8S, 12S or wathever ( i mean, you can get 8s or 12s esc for 110-150 eur. I agree it’s not expensive, but it still is twice as much compared to the 6S esc)
@DIY for a 12S build you can use all the info of the forum regarding real efoil builds. There are several threads covering 6384 , 63100 wet outrunners.
As for travelling with a batt, I think even the standard foildrive batt is not flight legal. Perhaps you could split it into 3 blocks ( if i recall correctly the limit is 100wh / pack, please check )
You can get 8S 120A esc’s for around £60 and then you can also get the 70A VESC’s for around $99. But I don’t see why anyone would skimp on an ESC anyway. After building loads of efoils, I’d just buy a decent ESC or VESC so that it can do both efoil and foil drive. That way you have the best of both worlds…
Cheers guys! That’s very helpful (I’m quite beginner till in winging and new to thinking about foil assist / efoil DIY). Ideally it would be a hybrid that allows you to efoil to some degree on low wind days - and give you an extra boost for getting on the foil during winging. I guess that’s the idea for most folks here on the thread - I’m currently reading through the efoil threads - thanks Pablo
hi guys, I’m thinking I will try to build some FD plus like Assist that allows for a good portion of e-foiling when it’s too calm for wind-foiling. I read through a lot of threads here but I’m still not quite clear - did we find a motor that works great for (assisted) e-foiling and is waterproof out of the box? Seems there are only a few at Flipsky and most have the cables coming out at the front?
Also would anyone have a recommendation for the foldable propeller (print or ready made)?
you’re not going to eFoil for a while. It works but you’ll drain your battery in minutes and your ESC will get to 70°C as well very quick. an eFoil is build very differently than a FD. Different purposes.
+1
Assuming you need at least 1000W to keep flying, you’ll get 20 min if you’re lucky
I’d also watch the battery temperature. I have a temperature sensor in my BMS and when pushing it for too long it was triggered ( my batt is also 350Wh)
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