Hi Nick,
It was a “CamdenBoss CHDX8-322C X8 Series Hinged ABS Transparent Lid 260x110x100 IP66/67”
I got it from EBay. Seal is waterproof. It does have protruding bits on the bottom but they are solid so you can just sand them down to make it flat. There are also a few on the inside which I hand to cut off to get the 6s4p 21700 battery pack to fit. It is a perfect snug fit though.
Thanks,
James
@nekitesurfing nice build, I just got an axis foil and am hoping to make almost exactly what you did. What are your other parts in this build? Bms? Battery monitor? Esc? Motor? Do you have the stls available? Thanks!
Motor is the 6384 120kv from AliExpress.
Remote is the Maytech MTSKR1905WF from AliExpress
ESC is the Flycolor 150A from AliExpress
Ceramic bearings 1x 6900, 2 x 6800 from AliExpress
The box is in my previous post and bought on EBay
Battery meter is just a LCD meter from eBay. Tons about but here is the one I got (LCD Digital 12V Battery Charge Capacity Status Display Indicator Monitor Meter | eBay).
STL files were passed on to me so will need to check they are happy for me to share.
Hello Everyone.
I tried my DIY foil assist for the first time today. All went well……for a while.
My props snapped. I have searched some threads and seen this has happened for others. These were printed in SLS Nylon PA12.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what material to try next?
Thanks
James
Here are all of the files. These are @s9tim files. He is a legend 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-KTznIHZ19NRtmu3c3iP2X_9P2GfM0ES
Hey James.
I’ve been running SLS nylon props for about 9 months with no issues. Only part I broke was the PETG printed hub. Strengthed this by filling with resin. You can adjust the setting on the ESC to slow down the max speed and make it a softer start up. 3D printed aluminium or markforged prop is possible with some vendors. I’m happy with the SLS. Light, cheap and strong.
Did you do anything to improve the waterproofing in your maytech remote. I just bought two new remotes and did a DIY epoxy job on the circuit boards. The screens are now potted from the factory which seemed better than on one I bought a year ago.
My LCDs battery capacity monitors from DROK just showed up in the post so will fit these soon to finish of the kit.
This Maker X SV6 is behaving very weird.
Almost impossible to get proper FOC detection, whatever the firmware (5.1 / 5.2) on 8S.
It sometimes work on 6S but very inconstantly (and on 6S, there is literally no point apart telemetry to use a VESC).
Anyone make their own battery pack? I want to make one from Molicell P42A cells and I’m looking for ideas on how to best wire it up. I will be making an 8s2p pack. Please post pics if you have them.
I will be staggering the cells, so all cells sit directly on the ones next to it. I have some ideas on how best to do this, but every way I’ve thought to do it seems to just be a mess. I can get cleanly halfway through, then the connections need to jump over cells, etc.
You could put them in two rows. Think of just 2 out of the six rows (link below), but always the 2 next to each other in parallel. I used spacers from Ali.
I think you need at least 3p.
Thanks for the link to those pics! Anyone know where to buy that type of angled parallel nickel strip in the USA? I didn’t know it even existed…I had searched and nothing came up. Also would be nice to find those cell holders.
They are from China: US $4.78 15％ Off | High purity 21700 Pure Nickel Strip 2P 0.15/0.2*27.5mm for battery spot welding ,21700 Li battery nickel tape spot welder
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mK7JghG
US $4.63 27％ Off | 10pcs/lot 21700 Battery Holder Bracket ABS Plastic 20 Cells 10S2P Battery Spacer Expandable Battery Holder Turmera 2021 new
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOgbpVC
That construction also shown in post 111 pictures…
Scott
Thank you for the link. I was hoping not to have to order from China…always takes so long.
Thinking about making a foil drive assist. Have made e E-skateboard and wingboard.
It this the motor you used @nekitesurfing?
Does it need any additional weaterproofing? And what cables are you using.
I’m 85 kg and considering a 8s instead of 6s to get enough power. What do you think?
Thanks a lot.
I buit mine with 6s4p and now rewiring the batt to get 12s2p.
Since it has the same number of cells as a 8s3p, perhaps it’s a better config. After all with 10s2p it’s possible to start with a skimboard, so plenty of power! You also get lower resistance losses.
And the difference in total price is just the 50eur extra for the hv esc.
Any outrunner (80100, 63100, 6384, …) always needs waterproofing:
Hello,
That is the motor although I went for a sensor less version.
I am using tinned 3 core cable (2.5mm per wire, around 13 awg) at the moment. This was just something I had. The esc has 10 awg but the motor is only 16 awg. The problem with thicker cabling is hiding it all in a streamlined way behind the mast.
I have one motor potted with resin and using ceramic bearings. I also have another motor that I am experimenting with that I dip in acf-50 (similar to corrosion x) frequently. I wanted to see how long it would last and it is too early days to say but it looks as new after 5 sessions.
I cannot get up on the foil with my current set up in flat water at 90kg. I will shortly be bypassing the BMS on discharge to see if that will give me some extra amps. I also have a 7s4p being made. I cannot fit an 8s4p in my current box.
Thanks,
James
I have 6s with the 170kv version and for me it has plenty of power (70kg). Perhaps 120kv with 6s is simply not enough
My extra 20kg my also have something to do with it 
