1: Its not giving back if people are paying for it…
2: The design is worse than the current DIY and open source options out there.
Yeah, I jiggled it about. But to be honest its a pretty crap motor. The Maytech is weaker, slower, rusted after first use, bad waterproofing etc.
Get yourself a Flipsky 6374 or 6384 and then there’s nothing to do.
When you say Maytech, it includes all these AliExpress $50 6384 motors?
Are these motors weaker than the Flipsky waterproof?
No, those are better than the maytech. They have a larger stator and more power.
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+1. Maytech has a better build quality than regular Ali 6384. (Phase wires, waterproofing…) But power not enough for most e-foil systems. Maybe with a three blade prop it would be better.
Yes they are. Although the maytech (not generic Ali) uses paint and not epoxy. Which IS not Bad per Say but a weaker option than the thermal epoxy potted like flipsky and saite or the DIY version (based ond the Ali ones) you can find in this forum.
I Can confirm that with a three blades you Can get a lot of it. (I manage to lift my 63kg with a 1250cm2 on an inflated board first session without pumping) On 12S
Thanks jezaa.jiggle I will😁
Foilguy, off topic and inappropriate as usual. He is among the 9 out of 10 people here doing the same. That’s why I will consider stopping posting here, poor community spirit. If it was up to me my whole thread would be deleted by now because it was swamped with foil trolls aka troils. Even this post is against community guidelines because when a post is flagged as off topic or inappropriate it never gets deleted. This forum seems swamped with people who wasted their time and money and who are actively seeking to put up barriers to entry to foil assist. If I do post here again I will just have to block people asap. The $1k foil assist seems possible to me and if it is technically possible, it is inevitable but I will hesitate to seek or provide help here.
I think that maybe you…are the troll… this forum is crammed full of knowledge as well as those that have given up the time to share it. You, seem to spend most of your time refuting what is now proven to work even though you dont seem to have any actual experience in any of it… ive built three foil drive systems and they all work fine…i also built them for under a 1000 bucks using some of the advice and products suggested in this forum…i also owe alot of thanks to those that helped me with CAD, wiring and battery schematics… you might find that if you were less in everyone’s face when people suggest things you might get somewhere.
Personally, i find your tone and unwillingness to listen to those with actual knowledge both annoying and frustrating.
I’d take your own advice mate and bog off elsewhere…You wont but then i expect nothing less.
K
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Something unusual happened during today’s session. After a few pop-ups, the power dropped to the point where it couldn’t lift the foil. What a bummer!
- Nothing changed since the last successful session.
- There are no mechanical or electrical issues.
- I’m stumped. But next time it happens, I’ll try reconnecting the battery—it might be some kind of ESC protection function.
I’m using a 6384 motor with an Xcross 160A ESC with fans, and a 12s3p battery setup. You can check out the build here.
I can’t remember where it was asked about how I build my 12s2p, but I have changed the layout to keep the battery leads as short as possible. I forgot to take a picture of the top before I sealed it up, but a couple pics with a drawing. I built this for a buddy this weekend. I used .2mm nickel strip and doubled it up on the single row, so hopefully this will give the least voltage drop and heat. I also 3d printed tubes for the BMS wires to go through the pack so all the wires would be at the top. All separated by kaptan tape and fish paper where the overlap. A couple pics won’t load so I’ll have to convert them.
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I wanted to do something similar but do a copper nickel sandwich on the series connections and a single nickel strip on the parallel to keep the resistance lower on the series vs parallel . Don’t know if it makes any difference on just a 2p battery ?
It will work and it is a clean build, but based on the power those cells supply, its is borderline. Use more for your next build or change layout to avoid single strip connections. This kind of ressource chart can give you a good idea :
I completely agree, but I’ve also built a 12s2p with just .15mm nickel strip and haven’t had any issues hammering on it, but probably getting voltage drop. So, double upped .2mm should be plenty, but maybe add one more layer of .2mm.
That is the best layout I could think of. Do you have a suggestion for a better layout? I would definitely build it. Keep in mind that it has to be in this layout for the box size.
That is super useful. I had not thought of that configurations for a 12s2p. This would replace my 8s3p perfectly in the Camden box I use.
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@nekitesurfing …my.mind boggles everytime i see a battery diagram…i was never any good at puzzles!!
Agreed…a great more powerful solution for those of us using the Camden Boss boxea !!!
K
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Super interested in the parts for the first pic with the yellow prop. Is that the BOM you listed just after this post?
Basically I now want to build the smallest possible assist (for wingfoiling) with the least weight on the board (smallest 6s battery to last several starts, small esc without cooling, etc) and least drag in the water (6374 or 6384, single cable through board, mounted high on mast, folding prop, etc.). If I can get the size down I may even build a cavity into the mid size board I’m about to build.
How would you use it for wingfoiling?
I have a dream to learn and to use wingfoiling (or kite, or parawing) in light thermal wind and even with a small board using the foil-assist to help get up.
I did a few tests, but couldn’t figure out how to combine them.
So when you manage to do this, please tell me.