I bought those batteries from
Mboards.co - two 10s2p in parallel.
Theres a link to a parts list in one of the first posts of this thread.
ok thanks so much, I’m hesitating to buy the same battery. Are you happy with them ?
So far I’m happy with those batteries. They seem to be built well and use P42A cells.
1-What cables did you replace the 14awg cables with ?
Nominal Voltage: 36V
Capacity: 8400mAh | 302Wh
Cells: Molicel P42A 21700
Connection: XT90 Female connector
Max Discharge: 90a
2-Do you use everything that is included ?
What’s Included?
- 1 x MBoards 10s2p P42A Complete Battery Solution
- 1 x Modular BMS (Battery Management System)
- 1 x 2.1mm Charge Port
- 1 x 42V Charger
Which 14 AWG wires do you mean? I don’t remember using 14 AWG.
Regarding the battery accessories: I’m using the BMS only for charging. I remove the BMS before using the battery.
Update on eFoil build #1 (the one with the 6384 motor):
I replaced the previous motor mount with a new one designed by @JonathanC (thank you!!)
This motor mount is great because:
- It has a cable channel on the inside. No more hydrodynamic drag with some of the cable being exposed. I had to modify my motor a little bit with a Dremel so the cables leave the motor towards the rear.
- It uses less material to print
- It’s attached to the mast with 2 screws and has been rock solid so far
To Do: Plug the 4 holes in the front of the mount (maybe it improves drag by a tiny bit)
3 Likes
Update on eFoil build #2 (the one with the 65161 motor):
I wanted to get a board with an internal compartment for the battery and electronics. Since my board building skills are non existent, I splurged on an empty fiberglass board from Fliteboard (link).
That board has a non-standard mast mount, so I had to put in an adapter plate to be able to attach the Axis base plate.
I want to give a shoutout and huge thank you to @MBard who did a Fliteboard build before me and sent me the CAD file for the plate and gave me a lot of good tips on how to get it done!
I got the adapter plate cut out of 6061 Aluminum from sendcutsend.com. It’s 9.5mm thick and cost around $55 shipped. Then I had to drill the holes and tap some threads.
The VESC is directly attached to the aluminum plate for passive cooling through the mast. This works great so far, temperature has not gone past 32C yet.
I’m using a waterproof plastic box (link) to protect the VESC in case water ever gets into the board compartment (so far it has stayed dry). There’s a cutout at the bottom of the box for the VESC and it’s glued to the aluminum plate with 3M 5200 Fast Cure Marine Adhesive.
As a temporary battery solution I’m currently using my existing 10s2p batteries in a Pelican case. Eventually I want to get a proper long range battery.
10 Likes
This is great! As a matter of interest do you know what the fliteboard weighs on its own?
I haven’t weighed the board, but will do next time the mast comes off.
A really sleek project ! Would you have a pict of the empty board part which receives the custom alu mast plate ?
I just want to see how it is ensuring waterproofness between board and mast plate…
Looking forward to seeing sbdy doing the same with a Waydoo board ESC hole …
@Mbard nice project for X-ref purpose: 'Diy Efoil with Fliteboard
Yes, as requested here’s a photo of the board cutout. It has a rubber seal and so far it has been watertight.
1 Like
@t-dub-maui Can you please share the dimensions of the internal board compartment?
(no data about this on the website from fliteboard)
Thank you.
Don’t forget to weigh 
As far as I know, the battery should not be more than 305mm wide, 390mm long and 80mm high, so that the lid still closes. The board weighs approx. 11kg
1 Like
Yes, I can confirm these dimensions @Kian
Does anyone know where to get a waterproof case with similar dimensions (max 80mm high)? I’m thinking about building a longer range battery and would need a case for that. I know that @MBard built his own case, but I was hoping that there is something available to buy to make it a bit easier.
1 Like
I’m searching many hours for a battery case. Maybe you can look at a case from Rittal. There is a stainless steel case with the dimensions 300x300x80. That should fit perfect. The rittal number is BG 1584.010 . But the price is with 280Euro not really cheap. That’s the reason i build a case by myself.
1 Like
Damn, some water got into the black plastic case. I’m pretty sure it’s through the motor wires that come in from the bottom of the plate. I put some 3M 5200 adhesive around where the cables come through, but it looks like that wasn’t enough.
Now I’m trying to figure out how to get it watertight. I was thinking to pour potting compound into the case to cover the whole bottom up to the height of the VESC enclosure (18 millimeters).
In addition, also pour potting compound into the mast upside down so it covers the area close to the base plate. Maybe even fill the mast with expanding foam so less water can get in there?
I would appreciate your thoughts on this plan.
Any recommendations for a potting compound?
Or do you think I could just use silicone sealant from the hardware store instead?
How much water? It could be condensation effect.
My suggestion would be to confirm the location of the leak first.
You could tape a garbage bag to the top surface of the opening, fill it with air via compressor or leaf blower (doesn’t require high air pressure) and spray soapy water on the outside bottom surface and look for bubbles.
From my experience 5200 is great adhesive (some people refer to it as devils glue😀) but not great as a sealant
Hi, I am just courious, how is your motor doing with the corrosionX after this time. Would you still do it?