Foil Drive Assist, DIY

During the last session, the compound with which Flycolor 80A was filled began to leak due to overheating and I decided to completely remove it in order to lengthen the phase wires and place the BEC more efficiently. This is an effective, but too hot ESC, I continue my search, 160A is next.

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I’d love to see how you got all that goo outta there!! I’m trying to modify one.

This may be interesting:

https://foil.zone/t/placing-foil-assist-box-on-the-body/19344

Hello, I am interested in your 3D files for attaching the engine to the mast as well as the folding propeller.
thanks in advance

Go X Cross 160A, you won’t regret !

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What prop, motor and ESC? having torque issues with my setup, overheating the esc on maytech 6374 (apparentely only 50mm stator)

here some print files for slingshot mast and 6374 motor, hard tpu mount. The files also contain the modified quick release clamp for slingshot mast, with bigger front cone as I had separation of the first version.

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It was not technically difficult. I heated the compound with a hot air gun and separated it into fairly large pieces using a utility knife.

What do you think about Makerbase VESC 75200 ?
It is at incredible $91 price for the 84V/200A + alu-pcb(better cooling).
It’s disadvantage is size: 130x68x28.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_oEhDrQ5

More info

I see many people struggle with VESC, that is what pushes me away. On the other hand there are many people that use it successfully… But this is the only practical way to receive telemetry.

@rttn I saw that you were using the Makerbase 75200

At least they don’t explode during the detection procedure like previous versions of controllers. I can’t say anything more, as long as they worked, they worked well. Both are currently burnt due to a few drops of water.

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@lishine
Quite a few using 75200 here. I have one, works well. The issues with vescs can be related to many things, i know some earlier 75200 were sold with incorrect resistors, screwing up the motor control.

In general, the vescs aren’t plug and play, they need to be set up (which isn’t hard really). I think setup is the cause of most issues. You can also damage them with just a wrong setting, they are not user fault tolerant.

And it is still a low-cost chinese electronic product… maybe i’ve been having too many esc:s that died but i’ve come to expect that esc lifetime is generally less than two years (for any hobby esc/VESC) if you really use them.

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They work but not the best design, there are some flaws, see here: How to update firmware on the Flipsky 75100 & 75200 FOC ESC - #281 by jaykup - The Citadel - Essential References for Esk8 - esk8.news: DIY Electric Skateboard Forums

It is a long thread but worth going through.

Here a link to a video about the Flipsky75200: https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=r9pKr9jNsVo&embeds_referring_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fforum.esk8.news%2F&source_ve_path=MTM5MTE3LDE2NDk5LDI4NjY0LDI4NjY2&feature=emb_logo

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What charger/setup is everyone using? BMS in the battery pack, external, no BMS/ISDT charger? thank you!

This is the one I use for the 8s3p pack. I also use a cheap Daly BMS, but only for charging.

33.6V 5A Lithium Li-ion Battery Charger For 8S Li-po Battery E-baike
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOGRJGq

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building my quiver, 8S and 12S too.



two 6S2P pack in series on the plan which will give me 12S2P

and another 8S3P pack almost done.

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I have a Gong mast (monocoque old version) that I would like to try with this pod. Since I don’t have CAD skills to even modify “complex” shapes I rely on you skilled guys :grinning:

I first printed a quick 10% infill of Strongarms original, with the Armstrong profile, which doesn suit Gong at all. I also noticed the section behind mast was quite thin, and from previous experience with another “sturdier” mount, the starting torque of the motor broke this part (I changed to 100% infill in the rear which sorted it out). so it might be a good idea to ad a couple mm rearwards to make it solid. Looking at your version with cable guide looks even more fragile because of the cutout, but hard to say. Or maybe I’m wrong…

I dont need the cable guide, so I would appreciate if you can make an STL without it, ie just original with Gong profile? :pray:

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You are doing a nice build there.
Would you mind to open a topic for it? It will be usefull for you and everybody.
You can then reference it here…

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The FlyColor X-Cross 160A as a cross ref:
'Alternative ESC with BLHeli32 Firmware 12S 160A

Flycolor has a new watercooled ESC reference: the KRAKEN tailored for RC marine racing use, with an optionnal WIFI module.
http://www.flycolor.net/index.php?c=category&id=215
Limited to 12s, the price is much higher than the X-CROSS:
Compact form factor : ca130 x 58 x 20 mm
Kraken price for 120/160/200A cont : 222 / 245 / 335 USD

Mobile APP programming and parameter setting APP programmable, real time data being monitored: data recording (current, voltage, rmp, temp etc…), needs optionnal part, the Flycolor WiFi Trans (25usd).

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Hello bbe

I can do that, but doubt that the HM mast and yours share the same profile

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Thanks Toto!

Maybe not perfect fit, but much better than Armstrong profile which bends inwards in the front. In any case, now the people with Gong HM masts have a non-cable guide option. :grinning:

During transportation, my propeller blades often broke, so I decided to make a cover. If anyone else is interested, I can post the model.


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