Shouldn’t this be reported to the seller which will then report it to the manufacturer ?
how do you get these things open?
I don’t know what type of oil FR / Lift uses. But, it smelled and felt like a mineral oil. I dumped it out and filled my FR motor with corrosionX.
Hi.
Take off the shaft side. Not the back side with the wires.
Just put a scraper on the edge and hit it with a big hammer. Go slowly all the way around evenly untill it’s out enough to remove by hand. See pictures below.
Be careful you don’t damage the shaft seal or the o-ring seal. Special care of the o-ring when putting back together. Use silicone grease on the o-ring and shaft seal, and Tef-Gel on the flange and the screws when you put it back together or you will never get the screws out again, and will get crevice corrosion.
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Where can I get these kind of bearing?
I have it open now, thanks to @Flightjunkie. Mine was running already several times I had a hard time getting of the cap. If you thinking about opening it, do it early.
How to proceed? Sorry for the questions but I don’t want to mess something up
Looking good. It actually doesn’t look too rusty based on that picture.
Pull the cap off the shaft. Then grab the rotor with a rag and pull the rotor out. It’s just the magnetic force holding it in. Be careful not to damage the copper windings.
Check for rust. Clean it off. If operated in salt water I suggest rinsing off the salt, and letting dry.
You should not need to replace the bearings. As long as they do not have lots of play / wobble in them, they are fine. They will smooth out after you run it awhile with the corrosionX in there.
When buying bearings you look them up by the number on the bearing. Should be easy to find online. But, I’m sure they do not need to be replaced.
Be careful putting the rotor back in that you don’t damage the copper windings. Fill halfway full with corrosionX (half full with the rotor installed), slightly less the half full is better then more then half full. You want space for the rotor to turn freely. Then seal it back up as I described in previous message.
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Would you recommend to apply this CorrosionX process before the very first use, same as your post about how to waterproof a remote Maytech V2 ?
Hi.
Absolutely. The 65161 motor should not even be ran before filling with corrosionX in my opinion. The friction on the seal on the shaft wears surprisingly fast without lubricant. And the bearings need the lubricantion to last.
Before getting wet I opened up and filled both my FR motor, and my 65161 motor with corrosionX.
But, as most of you know by now…I fill everything with corrosionX. My 75/300 VESC is submerged in corrosionX inside it’s waterproof enclosure, as is my Flier ESC.
I lived on sailboats half my life growing up in Hawaii. Learned early on that if you want something to last in the marine environment special care must be taken.
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I found 2 razor blades worked to remove the end.
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Just screw 2 bolts into the rear section of the housing and it’s super easy, you don’t scratch or damage any of the anodising.
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can you expand on this please. Im not sure what you mean.
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On the rear section of the housing, at least two of the holes should be threaded in order to add a duct etc. So first I loosened the housing screws, then I put in the 2 other screws and simply pulled the rear section off.
Hi.
The corrosion does not look too bad. But, by looking at the shaft, and the wear marks I can tell you have some time on that motor.
I’m concerned about the bearing that is in the cap on the end that has the wires. If you look at your rotor you can see where it has signs of rubbing. The epoxy that glues the magnets to the rotor has marks like it’s been rubbing. And if you look in the motor housing you can see signs of this dust on the outer windings.
That bearing back in there is the thrust bearing. Without any lubrication, it may have worn out. How many hours of ride time do you have on this motor?
Pull that rear bearing and inspect it. I suspect you will find it’s worn-out. It’s probably a Chinese bearing. No way a NSK bearing would have failed that fast, even without lubrication.
But seriously guys. Fill your motors half full with corrosionX. This failure never would have happened.
Here is a link to the pics I took of my Flipsky 120kv motor. Both of my bearings were Japan NSK bearings.
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I also filled mine with corrosion x. I rode a few hours and open the motor to check. No water no rust all looks great. The corrosion x is no liquid anymore but a thin paste everywhere. So it will not cause any drag resistance. But how can I get the rotor back in place? It sticks to the side of the housing because of the magnets so I am not able to get the shaft in the rear bearing.
Hi
Firstly, many thanks for your support. Yes the marks are suspicious, this is why I pictured it. I have another pic from back bearing:
I have maybe like 10-15 hours ride time with this motor. Limit was always 120amps current.
How do I pull out the bearings, back one and front one? Do I need to remove those screws to have access?
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Btw I am on side discussion with Flipsky by email. Will let you guys know what the outcome is.
Cheers!
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Is front bearing nsk japan and rear China ?
It looks like, yes. What a weird design decision
Thanks for the advice, Popped mine open and added Corrosion X today. NIce and easy when using 2 m4 bolts in the hub mount to pull on. Not a mark on the casing. Took a good wiggle to get the shaft to pop back in the bearing at the rear.
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