The prop that comes with the kit is too big anyways and suitable props do not fit the splined shaft, good you ordered the shaft with M8 thread.
1 Like
I’ll second @Foilguy and say I’ve not had any issues with my VX3 remote so far. One thing to note about it (and the Maytech remote) is that if you use it in salt water it should spend some time submerged in a container of fresh water afterwards to get it fully rinsed of salt.
Another popular remote option is the Bremote, which is sort of a diy kit solution developed by forum member ludwig_bre. The kits are available here: LR-BREmote - DIY KIT (electronics only) - openfoil.com
1 Like
The “included” 7.5 inch aluminum prop is useless as is. I cut one down and it works OK but Flite prop is way better. The Flite prop is well made so not likely need a spare anyway. If you crash hard enough to damage the prop you have a LOT of problems😉
I’m all for redundancy though. I built an exact replica of my first Fliteboard based rig. 
2 Likes
Hey, I’m in the same boat as you. About to design my own board in CAD and still unsure about whats the easiest way to achieve passive cooling with an adapter plate. Having the ESC fixed on the mast in a 3d printed box sounds like a great solution, but I would like to avoid drilling extra holes into the GONG top plate.
Since we are not using Fliteboard boards, it should be pretty simple to design an adapter plate that only uses the original holes. Are you also following that route?
1 Like
Hello!
For now im currently in the design phase of my battery pack to make that work out like i want it to.
The plan is definitely to passively cool the VESC over the gong mast and baseplate itself.
I was also brainstorming and thinking about the positions of the wire connections like you. One way we could achive this is to slightly raise the VESC in the enclosure to be able to run the wires straight down. To still achieve good cooling the whole waterproof VESC box/adapter plate AIO, which sits ontop of the mast could be flooded with a thermally conductive fluid such as non conductive EDM fluid (Used in EDM Machines). Or for a more accessible option with another non conductive fluid. Ive seen some people build Custom PC’S in tanks full of mineral oil.
The submerged option in dielectric fluid would give many challenges of fully waterproofing the VESC and all connections itself but will produce a really good thermal solution. Although it will be messy in testing id imagine.
The simplest option will be milling relief Channels into the baseplate where the VESC sits to run the cables straight down, but it will sacrifice much of the needed cooling surface and strengh of the plate.
From the other foilers experience, the cooling seems to be really sufficient. I guess one hole in the mast plate is unavoidable :). I will start drawing my base board first and then later worry about it
Have you seen this build? It was reliefed on the underside of the custom plate to make space for the cables. https://foil.zone/t/frankenstein-build-fliteboard-gong-v2-mast-flipsky-75200-vesc-and-in-my-case-a-tritonfoils-x1-monofoil/19516/40
I have a Fliteboard adapter plate build. I don’t have my own build thread (yet), but I bookmarked a few of the other adapter plate builds:
UK Efoil build V2 (not really adapter plate, but similar)
There are also a few builds that have used metal boxes filled with corrosionX. This is one example:
1 Like
Yes a very nice build indeed. Why was is necessary to drill 4 new holes into the mast plate? I think the others did not need to do that, right? Since we are not bound to an existing Fliteboard cutout, I guess an adjusted adapter plate where the original mast plate screws fit should be no problem. All the outer form could be simplified, since I’m a little worried about glassing this shape. Maybe a simple rectangular plate with multiple holes is enough?
That wouldnt be necessary for us if we make our own board and custom plate.
It looks like a conflict with the original fliteboard pattern due to the adapter plate.
From the pictures i can tell that they did that to tap into the thicker aluminium material in the middle of the plate. The original holes would probably line up at or over the step of the adapter.
Thanks for the links. The last one is really helpful. Thats some really good reference for my build. I guess i am not the only one who thought about submerging the VESC in dielectric fluid. I also read that people fill the motor with corrosion X to prevent it from rusting on the inside. I guess the 65161’s are not 100% watertight or condensate will build up in it over time?
1 Like
When using a Gong setup, the original holes from the Gong mast plate line about halfway up with the thick, and 1/2 with the thin part of the adapter, making it impossible to fix the mast plate tightly with the adapter.
1 Like
Thanks that makes sense. An all in one plate would be the holy grail I guess. Does anyone have a CAD model of the GONG top plate? On the other hand you would also need quite a big block of Aluminium that would be super expensive and takes forever to carve out 
Yes that would be the perfect solution, but as you mentioned a big block of aluminium will be needed, and a lot of wasting it too.
I believe CNC pro’s call this “machining scrap”
Someone posted it here on the forum some time ago.
Update.
It can be found it this thread
Blockquote
Database for mast & plate
To be precise here:
Blockquote
Database for mast & plate - #127 by JvdZ
2 Likes
Its more like “Calculated Waste” you trade in more time and material for a less complex assembly solution without many mating surfaces. For an E-foil it will be worth it since you only really want to waterproof one surface at time and dont stack sealed surface upon sealed surface, if possible. Any watertight connection is a possible failure point and failure points can stack up quick.
1 Like
Yes thats true, but not sure if the effort is worth it. If we can drill a straight hole through the adapter plate into the mast plate, we can add some epoxy or a rubber on the inside around the hole, where the two plates meet and/or add some silicone on the outside of the plates.
I think thats the way I’m going to start chasing. A simplified adapter plate that lets me go straight down to the mast plate and waterproofing the two metal parts as good as possible
I am not sure if a straight hole will be sufficient. Epoxy and rubber do not bond well with the silicone phase wires!
That’s why most adapter plates for the flight boards have the extra “pocket”.
More silicone is better 
1 Like
Another implementation of the esc on top of the mast is done by @EASYFOIL.EU. If you look around their Shop you can see photos of the various parts and a bit of how it’s implemented.
Just a reference point that is not based on a Fliteboard
1 Like
Ah, they seem to mount the ESC sucker directly on the mast plate in a waterproof way. I think I will try and model some stuff up with my limited CAD skills and then let you all point out my design flaws