Hey guys, finally i can share some pictures of finished V3 & V4 boards.
The V3 board is a copy of V1, made from a Anton Wingboard of the same dimensions 147x65cm 70 Liter. Initial weight was 5,6kg.
Lid is made again from sealed multiplex plate combined with 1mm CF sheet.
Motor is a 65161 with flite inspired custom made mast and fuselage which i inherited from @Subusi. Thanks for the amazing job!
Here is a link to the moulds:
I’m also again using a MGM 14063-3 ESC which was working already flawlessly in V1 & V2.
The process of the build is identical to V1, hence if you’re interested check out my first build thread:
The board was a perfect fit for transforming it into an efoil! Gong has done a good job, i was impressed with the build quality of the board when i opened it.
The cavity was made a little smaller than on the other boards, just big enough so i would be able to use my batteries. One difference though, since i needed to put the mast as far backward as possible, i had to flip the direction of the electronic box.
Because this board was thick enough i didn’t have to mill until the bottom laminate and was able to use the track box and leave the FCS handle.
To support the track box i laminated a sandwich of 2 CF sheets of 1mm each over the bottom of the board.
Lid is made again from sealed multiplex plate combined with 1mm CF sheet.
And also in this board i’m using the MGM ESC.
Thanxs for your answer.
So, i was right what i thing.
Did you know that this Connectors have only a rating for 100A?
When i start my efoil, i had around 170A for 10-20 seconds.
I check some metr logs and see also when i am around 40 km/h, i am between 88A and 110 A.
I always want to be on the save side… :-/
I’m sure that short time they can handle 180A.
At least I’m also pulling 180A while starting and they are lasting!
Although I have to say, after I let a 120kg guy use my foil and he had one failed start after the other, also the 5,7mm Amphenol plugs started melting. They were still working but I exchanged them for safety reasons.
If you want to be on the safe side you could use the 8mm ones. But I found them way to big and chunky.
Here I made a comparison between 5,7mm and 8mm ones:
Unfortunately the short Gong board is hungry for energy at starting, and since ram pressure is relatively low at start, the old MGM 14063-3 didn’t get enough cooling and has been overheating quickly.
I was drawing 170A at start with controller temperature at 110°C and was facing thermal shutdown of controller.
The bigger 250A ESC should handle high currents much better, so no more thermal shutdown.
But i’m wondering how many amps the FR motor can handle. I was thinking to limit current so the motor won’t burn.
Nice work, the AIREX cover would have been lighter than the wood! Can you tell me what the seal of the trap door is made of ? MOLD30 ? How did you go about casting the gasket?
I’ve applied @michion method of a temporary window seal as a barrier and then poured the silicone in place and closed the lid. I’ve done the same for the mast plate seal.
This worked out for me perfectly, not even a drop of water in the cavity!
Long time no posts. But I have been productive in the mean time. Here comes some pictures of a 14S13P Molicel P42a. That’s the maximum I could fit into my battery box…
The battery has a whopping 17,3kg total weight. But it’s been built for long distance exploring trips along coastlines or rivers.
Inspired by the flitecell nano I’ve also just built a 14S5P with the same Molicel P42a. I’m still about to find out how much ride time this small battery will give me. But I’m looking forward for the reduced weight while carving!
I’ve been riding the Veloce XLT, it’s very similar to RL Foil 1600 and the Fluid L is a very nice playful wing that I’m mostly riding at the moment. It’s a fast wing and requires speed to get stable.
The producer is BOPLA, my normal box is called P339 360x360x90mm.
The Nano is the P334, 360x160x90mm.
These boxes are premium quality and I really like the fact that I can inspect them whenever I want with 4 screws. They have a foam seal which is completely waterproof.
Hallo Tobias,
Du hast für einige Dinge wirklich super Lösungen gefunden (z.B. die Batterieboxen und Nickelsicherungen für 18650). Auch sehr gute und kompetente Arbeiten.
Wenn ich dieses Jahr mal Berlin zum foilen erkunde oder du die Müritz besuchst können wir uns gerne mal treffen.
Grüße von der Müritz, Lothar
Thanks mate! These are the latches i bought, they feel high quality and so far they’re waterproof.
The hinges on V4 aren’t the friction hinges I used on the other boards, they are these ones:
The cable glands are actually not stainless steel, but covered with nickel. I was looking for stainless steel ones, but harder to find.
Watch out for different sizes, 4-8mm PG9 fit for 8AWG best.
I got them on Amazon:
Finally have been able to try out the new lighter nano battery. And the swing weight difference is just incredible, the board is so much more fun!
I’ve also found a new way to start small boards quite easily by turning narrow circles. Like this I can start the board in very little time and battery consumption. Check it out in the video!
The winter in Berlin is giving us some nice sunny days, and as long the river isn’t frozen I’m out on the water in a drysuit with a heated vest underneath. So I can easily stay 90 mins in 3-5 °C water and air temperatures.
